Bar Boulud, NYC
November 24, 2008
Daniel Boulud has established a reputation as a top French chef in New York. His pretentious Daniel, his more varied Café Boulud, both on the Upper East Side, and his db Bistro Moderne in the Theater District are all successes. Now he has opened the Bar Boulud just across Broadway from Lincoln Center. Linda, Roan and I went on November 18, 2008 before a performance of Berlioz’ The Damnation of Faust at The Metropolitan Opera House. The theme of the Bar Boulud is Lyonnaise cuisine, particularly charcuterie, but the menu wanders a bit around France. We were seated at a table toward the back of the long, narrow space. We ordered three glasses of the crémat du Jura, which was very nice and certainly a better deal than the glasses of Champagne offered at almost twice the price. Three warm, light gougères were put on the table.
There was a pre-theater prix fixe menu offered at $37, but we decided to order à la carte. We ordered a bottle of 2005 Chave “offerus” Saint Joseph; it was appropriate for the cuisine.
Linda and Roan started with the
coarse country pâté, foie gras, truffle juice and port
It was a good example of its type.
My starter was the
pork sausage, potatoes
I enjoyed this. It had a nicely spiced pork flavor (although too salty for me) well caramelized on the outside. The mustard was the grainy old style.
Linda and Roan went on to
truffled white sausage caramelized apple mashed potato
The boudin was freshly made and had excellent texture and flavor.
My main course was
coq au vin
braised chicken with hand rolled pasta, lardons, onions, mushrooms
The old rooster had been cooked for a long time and was tender. The sauce was thick and rich so the non-traditional addition of the pasta was good to soak it up.
Roan’s dessert was
tarte aux pommes
roasted apple, calvados caramel chiboust, confit lemon sorbet
My dessert was
custard cake with brandied cherries
Cherries are a traditional garnish for this almond flavored cake. I would have liked more than three, but the dessert was good.
We each had an espresso to finish off. The meal was just what it set out to be, no more and no less. Except for the very New York clientèle we could have been at a new bistro near the Opera House in Lyon. Our French waiter was suave and efficient. I wouldn’t choose the Bar Boulud for a fine, relaxing meal, but it is a very useful and authentic addition to Lincoln Center dining.