Pierre Gagnaire

January 21, 2006

pg_5.jpgOn January 17, 2006 we went to Pierre Gagnaire for dinner. This was about our fifth meal there in Paris. We had also been twice when he was still in St. Etienne. So he is one of our favorites for a major meal. At St. Etienne, where he first gained three Michelin stars before going bankrupt due to lack of local customers, his cuisine featured unexpected combinations of two or three ingredients in each dish. They were unusual in what they were; I remember coxcombs and sumac in the first meal. The combinations of more familiar ingredients were also unusual. Now, in Paris he uses many ingredients in each dish so when they are unusual it is less striking. If you order the pg2.jpgtasting menu, you get a series of fish and vegetable dishes followed by a meat, cheese and several desserts. None of them, even the cheese, are like anything you’ve had elsewhere and you can’t plan to do them at home. If you order à la carte, you get four of five plates with each of the two principal courses. So bring a big and curious appetite.   The evening we were there the clientèle was very well dressed and mostly Parisian. The restaurant is not big, due to his pg4.jpgprevious financial problems. It is in the bottom of the Hotel Balzac just northeast of the Etoile. The wine list has a wide range of regions and levels. Our sommelier was particularly friendly and helpful. The service was superb this time and the meal kept moving right along at the right pace. We had had problems with some delays as the meal went on in previous visits. If you want to know the total price, this restaurant is not for you. Our menu was very close to this one from http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com: 

Menu d’Hiver N°1

Jus de cresson en gelée, carré de foie gras à l’amontillado enrobé de jabugo craquant.
Cheveux d’ange au poivre de Sarawak et dominos de patidou en amertume.
 

Ballotine de Saint-Jacques au curcuma. Velouté, tranche et feuilles cigarettes de navet de Pardhaillan ; un salpicon au colombo.

Rouget de roche «braisé-grillé», carmine et barbe de capucin aux algues.

Amandes coquillages et jus de pamplemousse au balsamique blanc. Risotto « carnaroli-vénéré » assaisonné d’une crème d’oursin.

Feuille de vigne et foie de lotte à la vapeur.  Bouquet d’artichaut poivrade. 

Gras de seiche voilé de farine de pois chiche, poêlée d’huîtres grasses aux truffes fraîches ; soupe de poireaux et roquettes sauvages. Tranche d’aubergine d’Italie et langoustines au sumac.

Crème glacée de betterave rouge aux fruits de la passion. 

Agneau de lait rôtie à la citronnelle ; asperges vertes de
Mallemort. Jus au raifort en aspic, carottes noires confites au soja.
 

Sablé à la châtaigne torréfiée, mendiants à la badiane :
Pépites d’Ossau-Iraty et velouté crémeux au bleu des Causses.

Le grand dessert Pierre Gagnaire.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s