Genoa Notes

June 16, 2006

Linda and Michael spent the nights of June 14 and 15, 2006, in Genoa.  All the meals were with an American friend who has lived there for a long time. He ordered during elaborate conversations and we never saw a menu.  Since this experience cannot be duplicated by other travellers, I will confine myself to notes which supplement the Genoa report from Gary and Varian which I have copied below. We drove from Beaulieu, which is faster, but less comfortable than the train.  We knew we would need our car to drive to Nervi and Santa Margherita.  Actually, driving into the middle of Genoa is not difficult as the waterfront spur of the autostrada takes you there, just beyond the old town.  The Bristol Palace Hotel’s bellman takes your car away quite efficiently.   The hotel is still slightly shabby after its recent renovations, but the location is superb.  The staff is efficient and very friendly.   
We lunched after arrival at Gran Gotto, an old standby; our lunch was excellent and gave no indication why they have lost their Michelin star.  Dinner that evening was at Piccolo Ristorante Ardiciocca,, in Santa Margherita.  The cuisine was mostly fish, cooked or raw.  We enjoyed it a lot.  Lunch the next day was an enormous Tuscan meal at Trattoria Da Mannori. We went to a few of the many museums and special exhibits.  The Wolfsoniana and the Museum of Modern Art in Nervi are highlights if you like early Twentieth Century art and design.  Don’t try to park right next to them.  Find a good spot in Nervi and have a nice walk to its lovely park. We went to the opera at the Teatro Carlo Felice, a short walk from the Bristol.  Only the 1832 façade remained after the 1944 bombings.  A modern opera house (We were told it is the second largest in Europe.) was built behind it in time for the 1992 Columbus 500-year celebration.  Also built in 1992 is the large and well-executed aquarium on the waterfront.   Walking in the old city is charming.  There are many small shops.  Just before leaving, on the little street just south of the Via San Lorenzo, we bought many good things to eat to take back to Beaulieu.

See the previous notes on Genoa posted February 8, 2006 from Varian and Gary


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