Gramercy Tavern, NYC 3

December 1, 2006

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On December 1, 2006, we went to lunch at The Gramercy Tavern with Linda’s niece, Becky, and her husband, Chuck. Lunch is a more relaxed affair than dinner, with smaller, and less expensive, menus. gt-12.jpgThere is a three course Market Tasting Menu for $36 (see below) or, our choice, the lunch Autumn Tasting Menu for $55.  There are no amuse-gueules, friandises or breakfast muffins, as in the evening.


The fluke tartare was too acidulated for such a subtle dish; even the flavor of the finely chopped celery was a bit much for it.gt-13.jpggt-14.jpg

The Nantucket Bay scallops which followed were delicious, but, even for a tasting menu, serving only three seemed sparse.  I know they are expensive as I buy them whenever I can find the real ones from Nantucket Bay during their winter season.  Wrapping them in Brussels sprout leaves, which was not as described on the menu, worked well. 

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.  The black bass was cooked beautifully; I don’t know how they get such a crisp skin without overcooking the meat.  .

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They should have used the technique on the squab which followed as the skin did not have the crisp caramelization that one gt-17.jpgfinds in squab in a good French or Chinese restaurant.  But the ample meat was delicious.  

 

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The amuse-dessert was coconut tapioca with cilantro syrup, peach sorbet and a caramel cracker. 

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We were then offered a choice of a chocolate or a cranberry and other fall fruit dessert.  Both were very pretty and luscious.gt-21.jpg

We had started with glasses of prosecco or grüner veltliner for apéritif.  We followed with a bottle of Seghesio Arneis. I had never had a California Arneis before; it didn’t seem to have the fullness of a good one from the Roero.  We then had a 2000 Arcadian Nacido Pinot Noir from the Santa Maria Valley. It had a pleasant flavor, but was a bit thin. gt-18.jpg

Despite my quibbles the whole meal was very enjoyable and well done. The service was slow to start, but improved a lot when we ordered the big menu and two bottles of wine.  In the twelve days since we had last been there the whole restaurant had been redecorated from fall: leaves, bittersweet etc to winter: evergreens, Xmas lights etc. The clientele was a mixed bag as usual and the noise level was high until later in our meal when most people had left. I don’t think they get two sittings at many of the tables at lunch.  It all came to $115@.  gt-11.jpg

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