Mirazur 1

March 5, 2007

30, av. Aristide-Briand
06500 MENTON
04 92 41 86 86

Closed all day Tuesday and Wednesday lunch


(This report is from our contributor David who dined at Mirazur the evening of March 3, 2007. The restaurant had gone out of business and then it reopened in April, 2006, and has just received its Michelin star in the new guide, a notable accomplishment.)

The physical aspects of Mirazur have not changed since we were there a few years ago and we still feel it is a little cold: more a summer than a winter place. That being said, we were very warmly met, the service was excellent, the tables spaced far apart, and we did not feel the 50 or so people spread over 10 tables. When we sat down, the four of us were immediately served glasses of welcome champagne with home made very thin crostini. 

The menu was short. The à la carte menu had a choice of 4 first courses, 2 fish dishes, 3 meat dishes and 4 desserts. The Tasting Menu had two choices: one at 70 € that had most of the à la carte dishes represented and a surprise of the chef at 90 €, a selection by the chef according to his mood. (There is a lunch menu at 30 €.) We went with the à la carte, and the bill for four, including a bottle of Savigny, came to 380 €. 

The meal started with four tiny amuses bouches, which were delicious, followed by an excellent velouté of celery. Country-style bread was served and also an extraordinary cinnamon brioche, which we all devoured before starting on the meal. 

For starters Frederique and I, as well as the other couple, decided to share two Jardins d’Hiver and two grilled spiny artichokes . The Jardin d’Hiver was a dish of  different vegetables: raw, cooked al dente or grilled; each done to perfection. I felt it was interesting, but nothing I would order again. The grilled spiny artichoke was delicious; I would have preferred to have had the whole artichoke, but I had to share it. Spiny artichokes are a winter specialty of the Ligurian region across the border (which is ten meters east of Mirazur.)  

For main dishes our friend, Dr. Phillipe, had the scallops, which he liked very much. Frederique and Collete had the roasted pork, cooked and smoked for four hours; I tried it and found it a little tough though very tasty. My slow-cooked lamb was extraordinary, with a crisp skin, and very tender meat. 

We each tried one of the desserts, all of which were excellent.  

A very merited one-star, but because of the décor, and table setting, it will probably not go to more stars. Maybe that will keep the kitchen down to a few dishes, and maintain the excellence.

Contributed by David.

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