Lindsay House, London 4

April 11, 2008

Continuing our London program of theater and opera with no dinner we wanted to have a significant lunch on April 9, 2008, before an afternoon performance of the new Yasmina Reza play at the Gielgud Theatre. We also needed to pick up our tickets for Carmen that evening at The Royal Opera House in Covent Garden. So, using CountryEpicure as it was originally conceived by Varian, we found their enthusiastic blogposts for Lindsay House in the neighborhood where we would be about noon.

After a warm welcome we were seated at a corner table by the window in the sunny upstairs dining room. I ordered a glass of grüner veltliner and Linda a glass of prosecco.

The lunch menu has twenty dishes each priced separately. There is an implication that the earlier ones are starters and the later ones main courses, but there is freedom to choose as one pleases. There are also eight desserts. We were also told of a few specials of the day. We decided to have three smaller courses each and to decide about dessert later. We ordered a bottle of 2000 Domaine Hauvette. We were introduced to this organic red wine from near Les-Baux-de-Provence at L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles last September. Somehow it tasted better there, but was nice here.


The amuse-gueule was a delicious little cup of wild garlic broth and a timbale of organic chicken with garlic.


Linda’s first course was
Smoked Eel and Apple Salad with Kent Asparagus.
The eel was very subtle, but the dish was successful.


My first was Baby Squid, Pressed Pork Shoulder, Sautéed Squid, Mustard Fruit Relish.
I have always liked the combination of pork and shellfish and this version did not disappoint me.


Linda went on to
Langoustine, Courgette Flower Filled with Langoustine, Broad Beans and Peas.
The zucchini flower and its stuffing were delicious. Thin slices of asparagus and zucchini were fine substitutions for the broad beans.


My next dish was
Tortellini of Oxtail with Bacon and Onion Velouté.
The sauce had a lovely rich flavor of caramelized onions. The whole dish was rich, but fortunately not too large.


For our third course we both had a special of the day:
fresh new Kent asparagus, morels, a poached duck egg covered with a foie gras emulsion.
This was pleasant and refreshingly seasonal, but didn’t have the culinary punch of the other dishes.


Linda decided to skip dessert. I had the
Alfonso Mango: Rice Pudding Infused with Lime Leaf and Lemon Grass, Coconut Sorbet.
Good old-fashioned English rice pudding with oriental infusions was topped with mango slices and a coconut ice. The cylinder on the left was filled with a passion fruit mousse. I like this kind of thing.


A lovely little tray of mignardises was served with the coffee.

The meal was very good. The ingredients were top quality and fresh. The combinations were interesting without being overly complicated or bizarre. The service by our French waiter from Pau was friendly and efficient. One nice little touch was that the day’s lunch menu had been left on the table for our reference. Although most of the tables had business lunches there was a serene ambience about the room. From my very limited recent London experience Lindsay House is the one restaurant that I would go out of my way to recommend.

To read Varian and Gary’s three previous blogposts on Lindsay House click here.


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