Telepan, NYC 2

August 8, 2008

On August 5, 2008, Linda and I went back to Telepan before a Mostly Mozart concert at Lincoln Center. This time we arrived early enough to take advantage of their standard four course formula at $64 with one dish selected from the “appetizers,” the “mid-courses,” the “entrées” and the desserts.  As apéritif Linda had a glass of Henriot Champagne and I had a glass of prosecco. An amuse-gueule tray arrived with a gougère with a runny center, chopped chicken liver on toast topped with diced pickles and cold cucumber soup.
 

We ordered a bottle of 2006 August West Rosella’s Vineyard (Santa Lucia Highlands) Pinot Noir. It was quite rich and very good after it opened up.

Linda started with the
ROAST QUAIL
telepan ham, wild spinach, pickled peach & pecans

It was succulent. The sauce and greens were a good accompaniement.

My starter was a Zucchini Fritatta which was piled high with sprouts and not photogenic or very interesting.

Linda went on to the
FOIE GRAS TORCHON & SEARED FOIE GRAS CLUB
duck proscuitto, figs & almond

On the left you can see the chunk of nicely seared foie gras. Then there is a slice of cold foie gras terrine between two slices of bread that was overly toasted and too hard. The garnishments were nice.

My next course was
LOBSTER BOLOGNESE
spaghetti, shallot-garlic-tomato broth & light herbs

This was really delicious. The broth had just the right amount of seasoning to bring out the lobster without overwhelming it.

Then Linda had
ROASTED TROUT
roasted corn, brown butter potatoes cippolini & balsamic

The corn and the trout skin were crunchy and good. The fish was tender and the flavors excellent.

My main course was
HERITAGE PORK
four-ways summer-style, black eyed peas & collard greens

I really liked the pork. Some of the pieces were very crisp on the outside. The piece of sausage added the right amount of spiciness. The collard greens were the right robust addition. An unannounced bowl of fresh vegetable pickles was served with it, but they were over vinegared and I didn’t eat much of them.

Linda’s dessert was
LIVE OIL ICE BOX CAKE
raspberry sauce & basil

It was a nice cake, but, as the waiter had warned, there was no noticeable olive oil flavor.

Mine was fritters and ice cream. (I didn’t note the description and it is not on the website.)

The fritters were a bit soggy and bland. I finished with an espresso that was terrible, as if it had been premade and microwaved.

 

In general we enjoyed our meal. Although some of it doesn’t work or is boring, the cuisine is ambitious. Our waiter, Ben, was excellent. Telepan knows how to handle the pre-Lincoln Center crowd. Menus and the wine list came right away. The courses came at just the right pace. For the area, I would rank it second, well below Picholine, but above the Café Luxembourg.

We went on to hear an excellent concert directed by Lionel Bringuier the 21-year-old conductor from Nice. 

To see our previous Telepan blogpost click here.

Telepan’s website

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