Copenhagen accommodations

September 2, 2008


The Copenhagen hotel scene  is difficult at the high end. There is neither a Relais & Chateaux hotel nor one in Leading Hotels of the World, which used to include the D’Angleterre, the grand old lady of Copenhagen hotels. Some internet reports are that its rooms need some renovation. I do know that it is extraordinarily expensive. Its location is convenient if you are visiting the Queen, but not for the town hall square, which is tacky, but is near major tourist places. The Hilton at the airport has a reputation as the best hotel. People recommended various new boutique hotels to us, but they didn’t know much about them.

Linda and I stayed at the Meriden Palace Hotel from August 23 to August 29, 2008. Its location is convenient, but the ambience out front is like a provincial Times Square. The bell on the tower at the town hall just across the street rings loudly every quarter hour from 8:00 am to midnight. I found this somewhat charming and sometimes useful, but it is a problem if a nap is needed. The Palace Hotel has a long tradition in Copenhagen, but had become shabby. It was bought by the Meridien group a few years ago. It has stayed open during a complete renovation intended to turn it into a “five-star” hotel. I think this may be difficult with its structure of small rooms, thin walls and floors and its unelegant location.

Unstarred restaurants

The first night we walked in the rain up to Puk, a very atmospheric Danish restaurant about ten minutes away, but it was full and so we went to the nearby Domhuskælderen where there were plenty of empty tables. It is in an old building across the square from the courthouse. We ordered Tuborg beers and the “Danish Menu.” This started with gravlax and a nice little salad of young greens.
Then came an enormous plate of two slices of roast pork with red cabbage and a bowl of boiled potatoes. The pork had a delicious crackled edge.

We finished with an ice cream and strawberry dessert.
I wouldn’t especially seek out this restaurant, but it is good if you find yourself without a reservation in central Copenhagen.


We had Sunday lunch in the Café Glyptoteket, in the great museum, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek.
I had a whole smoked herring with mustard dill sauce and a little salad.

Linda had the “brunch:” scrambled eggs and bacon, melon slices, chocolate cupcake, yoghurt, cheese and salami.

Café Glyptoteket was a very pleasant spot for a light, quick lunch. Reservations are taken for tables alongside the interior garden, except on Sunday. 


We had lunch with Eva and Erling at Husmanns Vinstue in a cellar not far from the town hall square.  Linda and I shared a curry herring to start.

Then Linda, Eva and I each had the grilled smoked eel with scrambled eggs.

Erling had herring with onions and then two slices of meat (I think beef brisket.)

We drank beer and aquavit.

The eel was so good that Linda and I went back to Husmanns Vinstue three days later for lunch. We had the herring with onions and then the eel. It was just as good the second time.

Linda walks along a canal in Copenhagen.

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