La Table du Cap, St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 3

October 7, 2008

On September 25, 2008, Linda and I returned to La Table du Cap. We were surprised to discover that we were the only reservation. A table had been set for us in the corner of the terrace. It was just warm enough to dine outside and we enjoyed the ambience.  The view over the port included Eze, Cap d’Ail and Bordighera.

We were not looking for a big meal and so decided to order two courses à la carte. Our aperitif was glasses of Taittinger champagne. There were hors d’oeuvres of smoked duck breast, an eggplant canapé and cherry tomatoes.We ordered a bottle of 2006 La Chapelle de Sainte Roseline, which was quite good, but still developing.
  

 

The regular amuse-gueule of the house arrived, the excellent salt-baked eggplant.

Linda’s first course was
Pressé de Foie Gras de canard aux figues, chutney de poire William,
pain figues & noisettes, réduction balsamique & vin rouge, confiture de tomate,
vinaigrette aux noix & noisettes torréfiées, salade mélangée.

This was a nice foie gras terrine with a variety of garnishes.

My starter was
Escalopines de Lotte juste saisies à l’huile d’Olive,
nage froide d’agrûmes au coriandre frais, bouquet de Riquette,
Tomate Roma “comme un oeuf coque”, son jaune et ses mouillettes
.

 


Four slices of monkfish were placed on top of a very hot rock alongside our table and doused lightly with olive oil. They were served with a mix of tomatoes and citrus on a long piece of toast. A little salad of arugula was alongside. It was good theater, but the dish was just okay.

 

 
Linda’s main course was
Carré d’Agneau de Sisteron piqué au Romarin, cocotte de légumes du moment au Persil Plat, jus simple.

A rack of lamb from the Alps was served with a little iron kettle of fresh vegetables.
 

 

My second course was
Longe de Veau de lait du Limousin mitonnée en feuille de Mûres Sauvages,
Carottes fanes pays étuvées au thym-citron, émulsion de Céleri Rave à l’huile d’olive,
jus aux éclats de Mûres de Saint Jean
.

I usually think of fruit going well with duck or roast pork, but here blackberries were served with a loin of young veal that had been cooked wrapped in blackberry leaves which gave it a slightly bitter taste that was offset by the fruit. The carrots and celery root purée were more traditional accompaniments.

We skipped dessert and enjoyed the mignardises presented on their illuminated tray with a bonsai.

The meal had been fine, but didn’t seem as inspired as our last two meals here. The chef came around to chat at the end. He was upbeat, but said that the summer in St-Jean had been calm. He said that the restaurant will close at the end of September for more renovation and reopen next March. We still think it is the best restaurant outside of an hotel in our Beaulieu, Villefranche, St-Jean canton and hope that it will prosper.

To see our two previous blogposts on La Table du Cap click here and here.

www.laurentpoulet.com

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