L’Aromate, Nice 3

October 21, 2008

On October 9, 2008, Linda and I returned to L’Aromate, where we had dined shortly after its opening last spring. My first surprise was that the menu had not changed much in six months, although there were a few new dishes to try.

We started with generous glasses of champagne. An amuse-gueule of eggplant caviar arrived.

We chose the 50€ menu and ordered a bottle of 2002 Château Pibernon, a red Bandol which we know well.

Our first course was Le tourteau dans une gelée d’etrilles au gingembre, crème acidulée, emulsion de fenouil.

The waitress told us that this dish is still on the menu because, when they tried to replace it, customers asked for it. The crab on a crab and ginger base topped with a fennel foam is still good.

Linda then had a special of the evening: Artichauts violets aux tomates sechées, olives et lardons avec sa feuille de parmesan.

The small artichokes were tender and their flavor did not collide with the wine. 

My second course was Les anchois de méditerranée,  sauce au persille, condiment d’anis vierge.

The four anchovies were fresh and flavorful. The garnishes were mostly for visual effect.

For our main course we had Le Pigeon de Mr Verzani, surpoudré de chapelure d’herbes aromatiques, girolles dorées au sautoir, tomates confits, tétragones et oignons sautées.

Underneath the grainy herb topping are two delicious pigeon breasts. The herbs went well, but I missed the crackly skin one frequently gets with pigeon. The small wild mushrooms were good, although somewhat submerged in the rich pigeon glaze.

For dessert we both had Les pommes en feuillet, crème glacée mascarpone, velouté chaude de caramel tendre.

The dessert was a repeat from the last time as we remembered how excellent it was. The warm caramel sauce is poured over the apples and the sandwich of iced mascarpone at the table.

We enjoyed our meal and hope that L’Aromate can continue to progress. There were only two other diners this evening. The original promise of a new menu every month has not been met. It needs to be developed or the repeat clientele will be disappointed.

To see our blogpost on our meal at L’Aromate in April, click here.


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