Luc Salsedo, Nice

October 21, 2008

Luc Salsedo is a talented young chef who opened this small restaurant three years ago after having worked in many of the best restaurants in the area around Nice. It is just south of the increasingly fashionable area near the Avenue Victor Hugo. Françoise, Monique, Linda and I went for lunch on October 10, 2008. The menu, which changes every ten days, lists three choices for each course, plus an extra special for each course. One can order à la carte or compose a prix fixe menu at 25€ for two courses (weekday lunch only,) 42€ for three courses or 60€ for five.We had a nice table in the front of the small dining room. An excellent, generous hors d’œuvres plate arrived with crudités and varied charcuterie.

Françoise and Linda started with the
Raviole de courge, brousse de brebis et châtaigne, bouillon de parmesan.

This squash ravioli was the lightest Linda recalls, with a subtle, excellent flavor. It was accompanied by chestnuts and Corsican sheeps cheese in a frothy Parmesan flavored broth. Linda’s idea of a good luncheon pasta.

My first course was the
Croustillant de tête de porc, sauce moutarde et pomme fruits.

The crispness of the pork offset its richness, as did the mustard and apple sauces. The is the kind of “new bistro” cuisine for which Luc Salsedo is known.

Françoise and Linda went on to the 
Filet de boeuf, garniture du moment et sauce vin rouge.

Both agreed that the Austrian beef was excellent – tender and succulent. The creamy polenta brought to the table in a hot iron casserole was original and luscious.
Monique had the
Risotto aux champignons des bois, jus de volaille et copeaux de parmesan

She liked this wild mushroom risotto, which had enough cheese and chicken glaze added to make it a substantial main course.

My main course was the
Rable de lapin farci, cocotte de légumes d’automne et jus à la sarriette

 The pieces of braised rabbit were tender and good. The mix of fall vegetables went beautifully and I had a bonus of some of the creamy polenta from Françoise and Linda’s pot.

For dessert Françoise and Linda had the
Traditionnel baba au rhum, fruits de saison et crème montée

Monique’s dessert was a
Tarte aux figues et mascarpone, caramel de balsamique

She was very happy with this fig tarte.

Mine was the
Millefeuille de poires et chocolat, glace vanille

This dessert was as tasty as it was cleverly pretty.

We finished with the quite plain mignardises and coffee.

The meal was excellent. Every dish was interesting and well executed. Luc Salsedo is easily at the level of a Michelin one-star restaurant, although its small size may prevent the award. The five-course 60€ menu must be one of the great culinary bargains of the côte d’azur.

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