Edy, Rome

January 25, 2009

On January 15, 2009, Linda, Sue and I dined at Ristorante “Edy,” a short walk from the Hotel de Russie, where we were staying. Sue and I had stopped by two days before to discuss the menu with the chef. She proposed a Roman fritto misto which would require ordering the ingredients in advance. We discussed the possibilities and came away looking forward to our meal.

When we arrived, the restaurant was already quite busy. We were seated at a table near the front. We ordered a bottle of Rosso di Montalcino.

Three antipasti were served:

Carciofi alla Giudia with wedges of oven-roasted potatoes.

These fried artichokes are a Roman specialty. In the past they were only made with cimaroli, that is big artichokes (at least 10 cm diam.) from the central stem, of the romaneschi variety grown in the Lazio region around Rome. These were not yet in season during our trip, but that did not stop many restaurants, including specialists in Carciofi alla Giudia such as Giggetto, from serving them. Here at Edy they retained the artichoke shape with a substantial stem. In the classic recipe they are peeled; the stem is cut short; they are fried in medium oil for twenty minutes, cooled and then flattened out into a sunflower shape. They are then refried in very hot oil for two minutes and served very hot. Anyway, while I regretted the lack of authenticity, I enjoyed the flavor and the contrast of the very crisp outside with the soft, meaty inside.


This is another very seasonal, very local Roman specialty. Puntarella is a variety of chicory that looks like a cross between celery and dandelion. Some people said that we were two weeks too early as the later crop has more of the appreciated bitterness.
To prepare them, the hard, stringy and leafy parts are removed; the stalks are cut into thin strips which are then put into lemoned water; this softens the strips and makes them curl. They are dressed with oil, lemon, garlic and, especially, anchovies. The point of the dish seems to be how the anchovies transform the bitterness into a delicious flavor. Edy’s preparation was good, but the version we had two nights later at La Campana had more anchovies and was better. 


This was nice and offered a contrast to the two vegetable antipasti.

The main course was
Fritto misto

We each had a plate like this as our main course. It includes thin lamb chops, lamb sweetbreads, lamb brains, zucchini flowers and artichokes. They were each coated in batter and fried in hot oil. The lemon wedge was the only seasoning. It is too bad that they were not served in two or three stages so they could be enjoyed very hot. I was glad to have tried this Roman specialty as part of our trip, but it was not a highlight.

My impression is that Edy is a fine neighborhood restaurant. Most of the tables  seemed to be occupied twice during the January weekday evening we were there. The local ambience was good. The service was friendly, if not always efficient.

The ladies coming out of Edy.

Vicolo del Babuino, 4
00187 Roma
06 36001738.

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