Millésime 82, Nice

May 5, 2009

On April 30, 2009, Linda and I dined at this ambitious three-month-old restaurant in the center of Nice. We were seated in comfortable bucket chairs in the plain modern dining room; the young entrepreneurs apparently had not diverted much of their start-up capital to décor, which seems sensible. On the tables were a variety of little potted plants, which warmed up the ambience.

We ordered glasses of the nice house champagne, Bruno Paillard. The menu, which changes every ten days, is small, but interesting. In addition to à la carte selections, there is a three course prix fixe at 32€ (wine pairings 12€) and, our choice, a six course prix fixe at 50€ (wine pairings, which we did not take, but would probably have been interesting, 20€.) The menu is more modest at lunch.

The wine list is appealing with a range of selections from the south of France. We were astounded to find 1999 Domaine de Trevallon at a reasonable price and, of course, ordered it. It was sensational. The maître d’hôtel and co-owner, Nicolas de Gols, was born in 1982, which explains the name of the restaurant. He is passionate about wines. In a niche near our table was an empty bottle of 1982 Domaine de Trevallon which the winery sent him, saying that 1982 was the best vintage they had ever produced.
lmi

His slightly older partner is the chef, Aziz Bouzgarrou, originally from Tunisia and most recently second to Jouni at his ill-fated restaurant. Both are graduates of L’école hôtelière de Nice, as are several others among the local young restauranteurs. 

The meal started with the
Mise en Bouche

Warm eggplant, octopus, socca and capers were mixed and served on a single slate for the two of us. The cooking was just right; the contrasting textures and flavors worked well.

Second
Rouget barbet:
à la plancha, salade tiède de coco

I think it is quite a feat to get crispy skin on a filet of delicate fresh rouget without overcooking it, but the chef accomplished it well here. The light tomato sauce on the thoroughly cooked coco beans was just right.

Third
Risotto:
courgette, jus de veau et morilles fraîches

The texture of the rice was as it would be in Venice. The zucchini bits were not as interesting with the fresh morels as the traditional spring combination with asparagus would have been, but the veal stock provided a good flavor. 

Fourth
Lotte:
en ravioles au lard de Colonnata, petits pois, pommes à l’anglaise

Lardo di Colonnata is described in Wikipedia as
“a type of salume made by curing strips of pig fat with rosemary and other spices. The most famous lardo is that of the northern Tuscan hamlet of Colonnata, where lardo has been made since Roman times. Colonnata is a frazione of the larger city of Carrara, which is famous for its marble; Colonnata is itself a site where Carrara marble is mined and, traditionally, lardo is cured for months in basins made of this local marble.”
The meaty monkfish absorbed the good lardo flavor well; it was a nice combination. The peas were fresh and flavorful.

Fifth
Quasi de veau:
rôti aux herbes, déclinaison de carottes fanes

The veal loin was nicely cooked, crisp on the outside, tender and moist inside. The carrots were served in four versions: (from the right) puréed, braised whole with deep-fried carrot greens, chopped with a mustard condiment and sliced. These were all good, but we didn’t eat much of the chopped one as it’s acidity would not have been friendly to the glass of Domaine de Trevallon we still had left.

Dessert:
au choix


The choices were a dark chocolate tart, a mix of red fruits and, our choice, a banana tarte tatin. This was the first evening they had made their tarte tatin with bananas instead of apples and I am glad they did. The caramelisation was good, but the pastry base was chewy.

The pace of the meal was a bit slow. I think that the kitchen might be overloaded if the restaurant were full. They had opened with sixteen seats, but now there are 26, of which only twelve were taken the night we were there. We were the only ones who ordered the 50€ menu, which is a surprise to me as it is an incredibly good bargain. The country western music seemed very out of place, but was not annoying. I wonder if French people can have any idea of the downscale image which a twangy version of The Tennessee Waltz portrays to Americans. 

We are very glad we went to Millésime 82. The chef is obviously talented and both partners are dedicated to their work. We recommend it.

 http://millesime82.blogspot.com

One Response to “Millésime 82, Nice”

  1. Gregory Says:

    Hello ! You can visit the restaurant at http://www.millesime82.fr/ It is their brand new website !


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