Lameloise, Chagny-en-Bourgogne

June 17, 2009

Pierre Lameloise took over this 16th century relais de poste in 1920. He gained his Michelin star in 1935, but died shortly thereafter. His son, Jean, regained the star in 1952. Jean’s son, Jacques, took over in 1971 and in 1979 earned the third star which it has held ever since (except 2005-6.)

Linda and I had been to Lameloise twice before and had enjoyed its adherence to tradition while serving the highest quality cuisine. But we had not been back for about ten years until we went for dinner with Jean-Pierre and Suzy on June 12, 2009.

We were particularly curious as there have been some recent developments. In July, 2008, Jacques Lameloise took on Eric Pras as his Chef de Cuisine. Pras had been Chef de Cuisine for Régis Marcon in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid when it gained its third star, but Marcon has a son who rejoined his restaurant two years ago and will succeed him. In January, 2009, controlling interest in Lameloise was sold to Frédéric Lamy, a nephew of Jacques. Pras continues as the chef with a mission to modernize the cuisine while respecting the traditions.

A tray of hors d’oeuvres was put on the table while we contemplated the extensive menu and wine list. 

lmgWe did not feel up to the interesting tasting menu and so made à la carte selections. After discussion with the sommelier of the possibilities from the adjacent Côtes de Beaune, we selected a 1999 Aloxe Corton 1er Cru “les Grandes Lollières.” It was really sensational, typical of its region with force and finesse. It was very reasonably priced.

Amuse-gueules arrived for everyone.
Crème brulée au lard, crème velouté de petits pois, tuile de noisettes

The crème brulée had a good bacon flavor. The flavor of the fresh spring peas came through nicely.

Suzy and Linda started with
Millefeuille de homard bleu en salade d’herbettes sur une émulsion de tomates

The tomato sauce was poured around just after I took the photo. The lobster was excellent.

Jean-Pierre started with
Les deux foies gras de canard, l’un marbré aux cerises Burlat, l’autre poêlé au suc de vin rouge

On the left is a generous slab of just seared foie gras topped by a bit of red wine sauce and a wafer. On the right is a foie gras terrine with cherries. Jean-Pierre was very happy with this dish.

My first course was
Grenouilles simplement meunière, crème de ciboulette & fine rosace de pommes de terre

This generous mound of boned frogs legs was dressed with a chive cream and topped with a crisp round of potato slices. It had a lovely flavor, but eventually became a bit boring. When ordering tasting menus, I am often frustrated by the small sizes of the portions, but this ample à la carte portion had the reverse effect.

Suzy’s main course was
Blanc de bar en vapeur de gros sel, légumes acidulés aux zestes de citron

Suzy said that this piece of sea bass was one of the best fish dishes she has ever had.

Linda’s main course was
Noix de ris de veau rôtie au sautoir & zestes d’agrumes torréfiés, cannelloni à la matignon de legumes

Linda wanted to have something traditional, but found the large veal sweetbread on artichokes became rather bland halfway through. She said that the “canneloni” of chopped vegetables was not a success.

Jean-Pierre’s main course was
Saint-Pierre cuit lentement aux herbes, risotto aux calamars & morilles, jus d’oignons caramélisé

The photo doesn’t fit the description on the menu, but he really liked it.

My main course was
Côte de veau de lait rôtie en cocotte, jus perlé, champignons des bois & bouquet de pommes de terre

This young veal chop had been browned and braised in a cast iron pot with its vegetables. In front are cylinders of crisp potato sticks. Wild mushrooms, topped with a foam to give a modern touch to this irredeemably traditional dish, were served separately. I ordered this to get some ideas as I frequently cook veal chops at home, but I do not reach such a high standard.

The à la carte portions had been very generous and the cuisine was a bit rich so we did not order dessert. Nonetheless, we were each served a pre-dessert of raspberries, with a white cheese and mint sorbet on top.

Two lovely trays of mignardises were put on the table.  

The meal was generally up to our expectations as well as Lameloise’s ratings, reputation and traditions. Bravo.

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