La Grande Cascade, Paris

July 27, 2009

On July 6, 2009, Linda and I took a taxi out into the Bois de Boulogne to dine at Le Pavillon de La Grande Cascade.  The restaurant is in an idyllic setting in the woods set back away from the Allée de Longchamp, where it has been for over a hundred years. Tables were set on the terrace in front on this beautiful summer evening. gca

The Parisians dress up to come to La Grande Cascade so it was all quite elegant. We ordered glasses of Ayala Champagne; an excellent little hors d’œuvre of asparagus and girolles arrived.

We chose the Menu “dégustation.” We ordered a bottle of 2007 Louis Cheze “Brèze” Condrieu and one of 2002 Jean Delobre “Pleine Lune” Saint Joseph.

The substantial amuse-gueule was a gazpacho with a nice piece of fish on top of diced vegetables in the middle. It was good, but as it was not part of the menu, I don’t have a written description of it and I cannot remember what they told us.
Copy (2) of gce

The first course was
Chair d’araignée de mer au naturel
petits légumes et pointes de sucrine “à la parisienne”
espuma des carapaces


This was really superb. Good fresh crabmeat was on top of a round of diced vegetables. Above was a frothy mound strongly flavored with the shells of the crabs. This was a small dish, but it had concentrated flavors.

 

Macaroni farcis aux truffes noires, dés de jambon et foie gras
gratinés au parmesan, jus truffé


This was also superb. There were flavorful winter truffles in the brown sauce and in the ham and foie gras filling of the tubular macaronis. It was luxurious without being too heavy for a summer meal.

 


Rouget barbet et fleur de courgette à la plancha
façon riviéra, glaçon d’huile d’olive


This course was also a success. A filet of mullet had been cooked on one side inside a large zucchini flower and dressed with thick olive oil. Served with it were a glass of vegetable tempura and a tapenade focaccia. Even though the cooking techniques were widely varied, the entire dish hung together by reflecting the cuisine of the Côte d’Azur.

Pigeonneau rôti au sautoir
la cuisse en cromesqui “à la diable”
mousseline de fève

The pigeon breast was served whole, but the thigh meat had been shredded and enclosed in the deep-fried breaded ball. Fava beans were both whole and puréed. Very good.

 


Tome de chèvre ariégeoise
chutney de cerises noires, eau de tomate en gelée

The wedge of hard goat’s milk cheese from the Pyrenées was good, but not out of the ordinary. A black cherry compote is a regular garnish for this type of cheese, but the peppered tomato jelly was unusual and added spark. This was served with a glass of Fronton 2008 Le Roc “La Folle Blanche d’Ambat  from the area west of Toulouse, but we were still drinking our Saint Joseph.


Chaud-froid
d’un chocolat pure origine “Praia”


The chocolate was top quality.

 

Coussin coco-citron
aux fruits exotiques

Passion fruit ice cream was served with a very light coconut cake topped with mango slices.  Nice.

Mignardises

We enjoyed a lovely evening. The four main courses of the meal were as excellent as at any three-star restaurant. The desserts were good, but not at that level. The service was very good and the pace of the meal just right. Our only complaint was that the restaurant brought out a chest of a selection of cigars to the three least-well-dressed men in the restaurant. It let them chose and lit the cigars with grand ceremony when we were just starting our desserts. As it was a terrace, it was legal. Even though they were several tables away and the breeze was not blowing towards us, we could still smell them. I am all for observing traditions, but that is one which should be abandoned.


http://www.grandecascade.com

One Response to “La Grande Cascade, Paris”

  1. christine Says:

    Oh yes, I think I would definitely like to have been there. The dish that I think I would have enjoyed the most is the crab meat. Well, I like crab meat.


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