Millésime 82, Nice 2
September 15, 2009
On September 3, 2009, Linda and I returned to this new restaurant in the center of Nice which we had enjoyed so much in April. We were seated in the comfortable bucket chairs at the same table. The décor has been livened up by very well-done paintings of vegetables hung on the wall and more abstract ones stacked against it. All are for sale.
We ordered glasses of the nice house champagne, Bruno Paillard.
We discussed the menu and the wine list with the personable maître d’hôtel, Nicolas de Gols. We chose the 50€ Ménu degustation and a bottle of 2006 Tardieu-Laurent Vielles Vignes Crozes-Hermitage. It had a nice flavor, but was somewhat flabby.
The Mise en Bouche
This was a ratatouille which was very concentrated, almost like a caponata without the vinegar. Seasonal and very nice.
Risotto : émincé de veau
This was enjoyable, but was surprising. It was a cool summer version of risotto. The slice of veal wasn’t heated at all. The veal stock was just tepid and had a nice light meaty flavor.
Calamars : à la plancha et salade de courgettes trompettes
This was another summer dish. The grilled squid was well done, but, as it somewhat bland, needed a livelier accompaniment. The dressing on the raw long ribbons of trumpet zucchini was a bit too lemony. (This is the preferred variety of zucchini in neighboring Liguria; one doesn’t find it elsewhere a lot as it deteriorates quickly after picking.)
Loup : grillé, fondue de poireaux, croûtons au beurre d’algues et condiments méditerranéens
The piece of sea bass was good, moist with a crispy skin. It rested on a bed of thoroughly cooked leeks. On one side was a thin piece of toast with seaweed butter; on the other was a crust topped with some kind of fish eggs mixed with a bit too many lemon pieces. A nice dish.
Filet de bœuf : anchoïade au couteau et barigoule d’artichauts
This was an excellent filet of beef. The chopped anchovy topping went very well. The quarters of artichokes had been overly pickled and we did not eat them.
The dessert was a good slice of tarte tatin. (My photo was blurry, but it looked like any other tarte tatin.)
The meal was not as excellent as our meal here in April, but we enjoyed it a lot as it showed good imagination, technique and effort on the part of the chef. Perhaps the surprise factor was missing. Millésime 82 is not on the tourist circuit; it relies on local business so the menu keeps changing. It is certainly a bargain. We will be back and we urge you to go too.
To see our blogpost from April click here.
6 Rue Chauvain – 06000 Nice
Tél. 04 93 01 84 83