Mirazur, Menton 5

October 1, 2009

On September 19, 2009, Linda and I returned to Mirazur for lunch with her sister Barbara. We were seated by the window; Barbara had the spectacular view west including Old Menton. There were three very long fresh grissini in a glass on the table. We ordered glasses of Champagne, Taitinger Brut for Linda and me, a Champage Rosé for Barbara. Three slates with four little amuse-gueules each arrived.
They included a Menton lemon cream, a little bloc of foie gras with a raspberyy, a mini-pissaladière and little brick cone with vinegared vegetables.

We ordered the Menu Dégustation and a bottle of 2007 Domaine du Monteillet Stéphane Montez « Les Grandes Chaillées » Condrieu. Three breads were offered : a round cinnamon-almond bread, a light foccacia and a dark bread.

The first course was
Shot d’algues dulce
Crème d’échalote et pomme granny smith

On the bottom was a shallot cream topped with diced green apple. The seaweed flavored foam was put on top from a siphon at the table. This was a refreshing, palate cleaning start.

Martini de tomate
Fleurs et feuilles de nos jardins

The jellied tomato water had a nice, but quite subtle flavor. After the hot August and the recent downpours the selection of edible flowers in Mirazur‘s garden was probably reduced from its normal exuberance.

Carpaccio de Gamberoni de San Remo
Radis et citron caviar

This cevice of fresh local shrimp was nice. I’m not sure if the “lemon caviar” was from spherification or tapioca.

Salade de différentes betteraves
Vieux Balsamique et chèvre frais

Here we really were able to profit from the seasonal garden. There were at least six varieties of fresh beets. The color effect was stunning. The flavor differences seemed to be more in the different lingering aftertastes than in the initial impact. As beets have natural sugar, the aged balsamic vinegar and the slightly tart fresh goat cheese were perfect counterpoints.

Espuma de Safran
Moules de bouchot, emulsion à la coriandre

Adding saffron and cream to the juice of mussels is quite a standard dish, but this was a thickened variation that gave an interesting custardy richness that was offset by the light coriander foam.

Poisson de la pêche du jour
Sauce fumée et mousseline de celery rave

This smoked foam with fish is a regular part of Mirazur’s repertoire. Last two times we had it with sorrel; this time it was with a frothy purée of celery root which I think worked better. The flavors merged into each other well.

Poitrine de porc
Purée de panais, jus corsé

The cube of seared pork belly was luscious on the inside and crisp on the outside. The various outriders featured swaths of a good parsnip purée. 

Mousse glacée d’amandes
Miroir de fenouil et sorbet orange

The frozen almond mousse was excellent. The orange sorbet on a fennel broth went very well.

Terre de chocolat
Tartufo Manjari, glace mate

Frozen balls of an aromatic chocolate from Madagascar were on a coarse chocolate base. The Argentine chef likes to use maté, the popular infusin drink of his country in desserts. Its slight bitterness contrasted with the sugar in the chocolate.

There were two slates with excellent mignardises.


We enjoyed the lunch, but I didn’t think it was up to the excellence of the last one at Mirazur. The chef, Mauro Colagreco, was off at a white truffle event sponsored by Alain Ducasse near Monaco and so we did not see him. We were told the happy news that his wife gave birth to their baby boy, Luca, two weeks before.

To see our blogpost from our lunch at Mirazur in May click here.

To see our blogpost from our first lunch at Mirazur two years ago click here.



4 Responses to “Mirazur, Menton 5”

  1. ChuckEats Says:

    I think this meal looks better than the last one – looks right up my alley of my tastes these days. the apple/seaweed shot and beets look exceptional.

    • Michael Says:

      The beets were the highlight of this meal for me, but I found the spring produce last time more interesting. The hot dry August here was very hard on the summer vegetables in our own kitchen garden and may have done the same at Mirazur.

  2. Martha Says:

    Hi Michael,

    I just wanted to thank you again for your blog. Thanks to you we went to Mirazur in June and had one of the most wonderful experiences. We had lunch on a Sunday and the staff was absolutely wonderful. They were so kind and welcoming to our 4 year old. The chef prepared a special plate of healthy food (vegetables, fish, sauce) for him and took him back to visit the glacier (is that the right word for ice cream maker?:-))all for 15 euros. And they brought him extra mignardises, much to his delight.

    Reading your recent entries makes me nostalgic for our trip. We drove from Stockholm, spent 10 days in Tuscany, then returned along the Cote d’Azur and up the Rhone valley. You really are living a dream!

  3. chaz Says:

    citron caviar = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citrus_australasica

    no sperification; no tapioca

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