Ristorante Bovio, La Morra

November 2, 2009

Two years ago Linda and I dined at La Belvedere on the edge of central La Morra. We had a truly memorable meal with white truffles shaved over each of the six courses. Since then, the Bovio family, which had run La Belvedere for forty years, opened a new restaurant just down the hill on the edge of its vineyards. Linda and I went to Ristorante Bovio the evening of October 27, 2009.

We were surprised on arriving at 8:05 that the large parking lot was already almost full. We discovered that there was an enormous birthday party occupying the entire length of the big, long dining room. That they blocked the stunning view was not a problem as it was already dark. There were a few other tables in that room, but we were put in a small room with three other tables to the left of the entryway. The decor of the old restaurant had been criticised by some, but I really enjoyed its warm old-fashioned openness. The new restaurant seemed a bit new and stiff. But the welcome was very warm; we were able to communicate without problem in our basic restaurant Italian with the cheerful waitresses.

We ordered glasses of the excellent house Arneis to get things going. We looked at the menus out of curiosity, but the whole point of our being there was the Menu al tartufo bianco di Alba at € 170. We ordered a bottle of the same wine we had the last time, a 1999 Bovio “Vigna Arborina” Barolo. Excellent.

The first course was 
La battuta di fassone piemontese con  tartufo bianco
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Fassone is a breed of cattle raised in the Piemonte. Its beef is known for its lean texture and good flavor. Here it is served ground and raw like a tartar, but unflavored. It was topped with a little salt, thin turnip slices, olive oil and, of course, white truffles. Delicious.

Uovo in pasta con tartufo bianco

An egg, spinach purée and ricotta are poached inside a large raviolo. They are then topped with some butter, parmesan and truffle chips. Terrific.

Cardi gobbi con fonduta e tartufo bianco

Cardoons, sometimes called “artichoke thistle,” are a seasonal, regional specialty. Fonduta is also a regional specialty; a combination of Fontina cheese, eggs and butter it is regarded as the perfect foil for white truffles. The cardoons were somewhat submerged in the Fonduta here.

Tagliolini ai trenta rossi con tartufo bianco


This pasta dough is prepared with thirty egg yolks for each kilogram of flour. The plate of white truffles was brought to our table and they were liberally shaved over our pasta. Yummmm.

Filetto di vitello “La Granda” con tartufo bianco

A filet of veal raised by a local farmer who adheres to certain “Slow Food” standards was topped with a small amount of cheese and then covered with white truffle slices. It was accompanied by various vegetables, including spinach in a little pastry cup.

Gelato ai marroni e tartufo bianco

Chestnut ice cream sprinkled with nuts was topped with white truffle shavings. The combination was excellent. Glasses of a Moscato d’Asti were poured for us, on the house. Meanwhile, at the birthday party, two of the younger members of the family were playing “Happy Birthday” on a violin and a trumpet. We were having a wonderful time, as was everyone else in the restaurant.

Mignardises

The meal was thoroughly satisfying, exactly why we were at Bovio Ristorante. The cuisine was not exceptional except that it was designed to be the base for the white truffles. Each of the six courses gave a different approach to the subject. Three of the courses were completely different from those we had enjoyed two years before; the other three were the same with small variations. While expensive, it is really a bargain as one gets an enormous quantity of high quality fresh white truffles with this menu. Bravo.

To see the blogpost from our meal at La Belvedere two years before click here.

The restaurant’s website: 
http://www.ristorantebovio.it/web/ristorante.asp

We stayed in La Morra at the good Corte Gondina Hotel. It is on the other side of the town center and is a lot bigger than it looks from the front as it goes back a long way with a courtyard, a swimming pool and an ample enclosed parking lot. It is a five minute drive to Ristorante Bovio, but a bit too far to walk.

The hotel’s website:
http://www.cortegondina.it/welcome_eng.lasso

 

One Response to “Ristorante Bovio, La Morra”

  1. Sally McKinney Says:

    I just swooned. What a meal!


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