A Voce Columbus, NYC

November 30, 2009

On November 17, 2009, Linda and I dined at this newly opened branch of A Voce, an established, well-regarded Italian restaurant on Madison Square. This version on the third floor of the Time-Warner Center at Columbus Circle has the same very noisy, high-powered, glossy ambience of many of the new restaurants in New York opened by expanding corporations. Both A Voce restaurants are owned by Marlon Abela, a London-based Lebanese with a fortune inherited from his father’s huge food service business. Abela’s corporation has several restaurants in London and intends to keep expanding worldwide.

We ordered glasses of Arneis. A plate arrived with a bread that was about halfway to a foccacia along with a dipping bowl of ricotta, olive oil and herbs. Nice.

We ordered a bottle of 2003 Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico Riserva; it was right for the meal, easy drinking with a nice Chianti flavor.

Linda started with a half-order of
Spaghetti al chitarra
hand crafted spaghetti, crab, leeks, sea urchin

The sea urchin and crab were plentiful enough to make a flavorful, good impact on the fresh pasta. Nice dish.

My first course was
taleggio filled pasta, butternut squash, brown butter, sage

This was very nice; the sage brown butter was done just right and the squash cubes had been done to a crisp, which added needed texture.

Linda’s main course was
grilled lamb chops, lamb sausage, umbrian lentils, stone fruit mostarda

This was a good combination. The lamb chops and sausage were well prepared.

Grilled veal chop
sunchokes, chestnuts, black Umbrian truffle sauce

The veal chop was huge; it was good, as were the garnishes, but I couldn’t finish it.

We skipped dessert. The meal was very good, although not unusual. It used well-paired, high quality ingredients and avoided over complication. The portions were generous and the service was efficient. This would be a welcome addition to the dining scene near Lincoln Center, but the extreme noise level is too high for us to enjoy our meal. We will not be back; too bad.

On the way out we could admire the Christmas lights which had just been hung in the atrium of the Time-Warner Center. They changed color as classical Christmas music played.


One Response to “A Voce Columbus, NYC”

  1. Blair Says:

    About 2 weeks ago Karyn and I consulted The Wandering Epicures for a pre show meal near Lincoln Center and decided on A Voce. Last night we arrived just after 6pm and were promptly seated, everyone was well dressed and the nice level was quite low.
    We decided to split the Pesce Crudo to start, which had 4 pieces of delicious Yellowtail with a small bit of orange on top, then I had the Spaghetti al Chitarra with a glass of the Arneis and Karyn had the Ravioli stuffed with prosciutto and a glass of the Chardonnay.
    As well with the sun going down the view of the park was exceptional.
    The prices were very reasonable for the quality of the food and wine; we highly recommend A Voce for a meal before a Lincoln Center event.
    While Mike seemed to think the noise level was too high for a return trip I found the noise to be no issue at all. Admittedly it was 7:30 on a Thursday, but I think things may have calmed down since its opening; another try for The Wandering Epicures might be in order.

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