Flaveur, Nice 2

February 8, 2010

The 2010 Gault-Millau Guide included the pair of chefs at Flaveur among six designated as this year’s “Grands de Demain,” tomorrow’s great chefs. So Linda and I were looking forward to our return there on January 29, 2010, for dinner with Gary and Varian.


We started with glasses of the good house Champagne.  

Gary and Varian ordered à la carte. Linda and I ordered the Menu Découverte at 50 € and a bottle of  2007 Domaine de Montellet Saint Joseph red. It was lighter than most Saint Joseph’s and so it went well with all of our dishes.

Bread was put on the table.

The amuse-gueules arrived: smoked haddock on crème fraiche, a chick pea fritter and a polenta velouté with popcorn.

A good start.

Our first course was
Foie gras de canard, magret de canard fumé, pignons, gelée de pommes, consommé de canard, tartine de terrine de foie gras


This was quite complicated and more interesting than a simple sautéed piece of fresh foie gras. A slice of smoked duck breast and pine nuts were put on top and a duck consommé poured around. Apple jelly and a bit of foie gras terrine on toast were served alongside.

Brandade de morue comme un velouté
chorizo, œuf poché, endive

I should also have taken a photo of this before the warm, foamy brandade was poured around it. Underneath is a slice of spicy Spanish sausage and a poached egg; you can see the yellow yolk. The cod brandade retained its traditional flavor and made a good, unusual dish.

Pêche Niçoise / Bouillon de clémentines / Fenouil et Yuzu

This was too bad. The tangerine broth and the fennel would have been excellent with a nice piece of fish, but we were served three scallops with an unpleasant metallic taste. They looked like the kind of big sea scallops we get in New York, not the smaller fresher kind with the roe common in France. Strange.

Filet de Boeuf / Galette de sarrazin et betteraves fanes / Bordelaise à la fève Tonka

This was a very good course. The filet of beef was top quality and perfectly cooked. The little piece of braised beef chuck on the left added a nice richness. The Bordelaise sauce combined with the beet root and beet greens went very well and the little buckwheat cake helped absorb some of the juices. Bravo.

Fromages affinés de Monsieur Perrin
Faisselle aux ciboulettes /  Bonde de Gatine 


The chunk of goat cheese was ripe and good. The jar had a strained, fresh, creamy cheese with chives; it was light and refreshing. This was the right size cheese course.

Mousse de fromage blanc à l’orange / Prune confite au vin rouge / Différentes textures

An orange flavored fresh cream cheese was topped with a mound of prune/red wine jam and varied little garnishes. Very nice.

I think that the cuisine at Flaveur is a work in progress, as the Gault-Millau award suggests. It is difficult to say where it will go from here. The only dish tonight which seemed to follow a coherent plan with good ingredients and execution was the beef course. The fish course would have qualified with good fish, not the metallic tasting scallops. The others were enjoyable and fun, but were patchwork and didn’t seem to be steps to a higher level. Then there is the question of how to finance a higher level restaurant, if, in fact, that is what the Tourteaux brothers, and their dining room partner Xavier, want to do. It is easy to crash in Nice by aiming too high, as Jacques Maximin, Jouni and others have shown. In the meantime Flaveur is an excellent local restaurant, outside the tourist circuit, for the enjoyment of those who know about it.

To see our meal at Flaveur last May click here.

http://flaveur.net/home/

 

One Response to “Flaveur, Nice 2”

  1. mixlamalice Says:

    Hi,

    I went there last month, and some courses were similar or identical to the ones you had (amuse-gueules, brandade, pêche niçoise – with if I remember, same sauce but seabass instead of scallops- and dessert).
    Even though I enjoyed the evening (good food, really nice waiter, ok pace, good price for the quality of the food), I found that in most cases the dishes were too complicated, for not always necessary reasons: for example, the cream cheese was very good, but all the little garnishes were a little distracting. The brandade dish was nice, chorizo and egg inside is a great idea, but there were all kinds of herbs and roots that didn’t seem useful to me.
    I usually prefer simple dishes with one main ingredient and no more than 2 or 3 extra-ingredients or flavors. So I prefered Millesime 82, which you also talked about and which is a really similar restaurant in some respects (really small menu, same range of prices, 20 seats or so, two people in the kitchen and one in the dining room etc). But I thought the food there was much simpler, but still really good and interesting.

    Thank you for your posts that were useful to find good places when I went back to Nice last Christmas after a few years away.
    Next time, I’d like to try Aromate.


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