Maze by Gordon Ramsay, NYC

April 8, 2010

Maze is the informal adjunct of the New York two-Michelin-star Gordon Ramsey at the London, which in turn is an adjunct of Gordon Ramsey, the only restaurant in London with three Michelin stars. (In the NY Zagat Maze has a higher food rating than the formal restaurant.)

On April 1, 2010, Linda, Timothy and I went for dinner at Maze before seeing Sondheim on Sondheim at the nearby Studio 54 Theater.  

We ordered glasses of prosecco while we looked at the menus. We chose from the pre-theater prix-fixe at $35, which offers three choices in each of three courses. We ordered a bottle of 2006 Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino which was just what you would expect.

Timothy’s first course was
Cauliflower soup, smoked Idaho trout, horseradish, black pepper toast

He was very happy with it. 

Linda started with
Tortellini of beef short rib, escarole, trompette royale and dashi

She said that the one tortellono was unusual and a very good starter.

Mine was
House cured fluke, pomegranate, crème fraîche, crispy pumpernickel

The fluke was good quality; the garnishes provided variations in flavor and texture without submerging it.

Timothy’s main course was
Roasted breast of chicken, caramelized root vegetables, smoked bacon, Medjool dates and thyme velouté

He said that the crisping on the outside of the chicken had made it a bit dry, but that the sauce made up for that. The other ingredients were all interesting and good.

Linda went on to
Carnaroli risotto of parsley, mascarpone, sage and walnut pesto

Good texture, good flavor; well done. 

My main was
Dry aged strip loin, sunchoke purée, pommes anna, roasted Portobello

The aged beef was good quality, but the overall dish was heavy with no counterpoints.

Timothy’s dessert was
Chocolate pudding, stout ice cream, pretzel, peanut butter powder

He was happy with it. 

Linda’s was
Carrot cake, cream cheese frosting, walnut praline ice cream

There was too much cream cheese in proportion to the cake, but it was a light, good dessert.

Mine was
Valrhona chocolate fondant; green cardamom, caramel, sea salt and almond ice cream

The dark chocolate had a rich flavor and a light texture; the four-ingredient ice cream was extraordinary and very good.

There was a little dish of mignardises: fresh chocolate truffles and peanut brittle.

This was a good meal and just right for pre-theater. It was exceptional for the price: about $70 each including wine, tax and tip. The service was generally good. The noise level was high as Maze opens onto the bar of the London Hotel.  I don’t think this tells us much about the probable quality of the formal Gordon Ramsay at the London which we could see behind doors to the back. It would have to have a completely different style to justify the two Michelin stars.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.