L’Hostellerie Jérôme, La Turbie, 5
July 12, 2010
On June 16, 2010, John and Kathy invited Linda and me to dinner at L’Hostellerie Jérôme. We had not been back since the previous October despite it’s being our favorite restaurant within a twenty minute drive of our house. Four tables were set up outside on the little terrace, but there was a chill in the air so we chose a table in the back room. We ordered glasses of champagne; mine was the house cocktail with the addition of bitter orange.
We decided to order à la carte, even though the 70 € and 120 € menus looked interesting. We ordered a bottle of Domaine Courtade, the white wine from the Ile de Porquerolles. It is always good with seafood. We also ordered a bottle of Domaine Hauvette, a red wine from near Les Baux de Provence which I usually order when I see it on a wine list. It lived up to expectations.
L’Hostellerie Jérôme’s perpetual amuse-gueule of duck pâté in a puff pastry crust with a truffle cream arrived. It is nice that some things never change.
Kathy’s first course was
Asperges violettes d’Albenga à l’émulsion de comté truffé
This is the season for fresh aparagus from nearby Liguria. The truffled cheese sauce went very well.
Linda and John started with
Filets de rougets au fumet d’olives noires servis avec la salade de girolles et la terrine d’ail doux.
This was large for a starter because it was a main course on the menu. The rougets were well prepared and enhanced by the mild black olive sauce underneath. The mashed potatoes in the middle added some substance while the side plate with its firm wild mushrooms, crisp lettuce and little mound of garlic purée added flavor and textural highpoints.
My first course was
Gamberoni rossi grillés et emincé de seiche à la vapeur, nèfles et citrons confits
The red shrimp from Liguria have an excellent flavor which is not overwhelmed by the shards of squid, loquats and lemons.
Kathy’s main course was
Filet d’agneau de Provence aux petits farcis, fleurs et salades des garrigues
The regional lamb was flavorful. The little stuffed vegetables, a local specialty, were excellent.
Linda went on to
Cochonnet du Larzac rôti en cocotte à la purée truffée
There were five cuts from the suckling pig: a chop, a slice of filet and of the belly, pieces of the heart and the liver. It was served with truffled mashed potatoes and sautéed wild mushrooms. This unusual selection and its sauce provided an excellent, rich dish which Linda liked.
John went on to
Rognon de veau rôti dans sa graisse clouté de romarin
The whole veal kidney was roasted in its own covering of fat studded with fresh rosemary. It was served with a mushroom and meat sauce. John liked it, but thought it was too much for him.
My main course was
Pigeonneau rôti au foie gras, olives noires et girolles printanières
The squab breasts and legs were served with two generous slices of sautéed foie gras, sautéed wild mushrooms, black olives, a mound of fresh spring peas and a little dish of mashed potatoes. The dish was too complicated, but it was rich and delicious.
Kathy and John had
Les fromages affinés par Monsieur Céneri
Monsieur Céneri is a well known cheese shop in Cannes. The selection was varied and in good condition. They couldn’t resist trying six cheeses. Hazelnuts and quince jelly were served alongside the bread.
Linda’s dessert was
Fine tarte tiède aux pêches blanches rôties à la verveine
The warm peach tart was garnished with fresh almonds and ice cream of verveine, which is usually used for herbal tea.
My dessert was
Les premières cerises “Coeur de pigeon” flambées à l’eau-de-vie
The cherry season had just started. This dessert was superb.
There was an après-dessert for everyone.
A raspberry tartelette and a sorbet of Menton lemons.
The mignardises were chocolate disks.
On the way out Linda and John stopped outside the restaurant to enjoy the ambience of the old town of La Turbie.
Walking to the car we could see the bell tower of the church and the Trophée des Alpes illuminated.
Our meal was very good, certainly worthy of L’Hostellerie Jérôme’s two Michelin stars. Its strength lies in its concentration on regional ingredients and traditions. When it strays, as with the fruit with the shrimp, the results are weaker. The service was excellent and the pace was good, despite all the inside tables being occupied. Bravo.
To see the blogpost on our last meal at L’Hostellerie Jérôme click here.