Millésime 82, Nice 3

July 19, 2010

On June 18, 2010 Tom and Kathy invited us to dinner at Millésime 82. We were warmly welcomed by Nicolas, the maître d’hôtel. We ordered glasses of Bruno Paillard Champagne. A slate with excellent fresh chips of sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes and onions was placed in the middle of the table. Another was brought when we finished the first.

We ordered the 50 € tasting menu, which is chef’s choice, but most of the dishes were on the small à la carte menu. We ordered a bottle of Domaine Courtade and one of 2005 Eric Boigelot “Les Santenots” Volnay. They were up to our expectations and went well with the cuisine.

The amuse-gueule was a goat cheese crouton with carrots, celery and cucumber.

Nice 

The first course was
Pissaladière: sable croquant au parmesan, compote d’oignons confits, crevette et petite salade

Naming this after the local niçois specialty, pissaladière, was stretching it. Only the braised onions were authentic. The parmesan wafer instead of bread dough and the shrimp instead of anchovies were not really improvements. Seafood and cheese rarely make a good combination. But the dish was not unpleasant.

 

Courgette : gratinée au parmesan et farcie au brocciu, basilic et tomate confite ; petit tartare frais de loup et vinaigrette courgette

Here we have another variation on a basic niçois specialty, les petits farcis. Instead of meat and breadcrumbs, the round zucchini is stuffed with brocciu, the Corsican cheese. Chopped raw local sea bass and vegetables are alongside and a zucchini purée is underneath. This dish was clever and good with its mix of regional products.

 

St Pierre et calamars à la plancha, jus de coques au cresson, gnocchis merda di can et vinaigrette à l’encre de seiche

A piece of John Dory and chunks of squid are cooked on a very hot griddle. They are served with some clam juice and a niçois version of gnocchi which are made here with spinach instead of the traditional chard. Very good.

Filet de veau, asperges vertes, morilles, purée d’echalottes

The slice of veal loin, the green asparagus with morels and the shallot purée were all good.

The pre-dessert was home-made Chantilly, white and dark chocolate chips, cherries

The not-too-sweet cream and the seasonal cherries were very good. It was like a stripped down version of a Black Forest Torte.

The dessert was strawberry soup with a vanilla dollop in the middle.

Strawberries, like the cherries, were in season. Good.

As usual at Millésime 82, we had a very enjoyable meal that is a great value at 50 €. The local inspiration is good, but I would prefer to have the variations closer to the originals. I do not see the current effort as one which will gain a Michelin star like the surprising stars recently gained by nearby L’Aromate and L’Aphrodite. Perhaps a star is in their ambitions, perhaps not, but I recommend this restaurant for what it is now.

To see the blogpost on our meal at Millésime 82 last September click here.

www.millesime82.fr/ 

Note: Millésime 82 has been sold. The buyers were formerly with Keisuke Matsushima. They have reopened as Les Deux Canailles. http://www.lesdeuxcanailles.com/

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