etc…, Paris

June 7, 2011

Christian Le Squer, well-known chef of three-star Ledoyen, opened this small restaurant three years ago and sent one of his former seconds, Bernard Pinaud, to continue in the kitchen. (For Le Squer, etc… means epicurean traditional cuisine.) Linda and I went for dinner on May 12, 2011.

We ordered the Menu L’Escapade d’etc… at 62 €  and a bottle of 2009 Domaine Chèze « Pagus Luminis » Condrieu.

It was from a vigneron I did not know before and was very good. 

The first course was
Macaron betterave/Tarama de Saint-Jacques

The natural tanginess of the beets in the macaron offset the scallop mousse very nicely.

Persillade aux senteurs des bois

A truffle biscuit is floating on a parsley mousse over a broth of lobster and wild mushrooms with a foie gras cream on the bottom. Excellent. 

Turbot aux asperges

The turbot and the green asparagus were two good, fresh ingredients which made a simple, flavorful dish.

Soufflé de boudin noir/Jus passion

The traditional blood sausage had been made into a light soufflée, which gave it a completely different aspect without changing the flavor. The passion fruit sauce was a perfect combination, but it was very strong and one only needed a few drops with each spoonful.

A canoe of fruit arrived to accompany the desserts.

Linda asked for a substitution for the first dessert and was served
Ravioles de fruits rouges à la reglisse/sorbet à la coriandre

The seasonal red berries had been covered with thin sheets of licorice gel. The coriander sorbet added a refreshing touch.

I had the regular first dessert
Chocolat au thé Earl Grey /Carambar

The flavor of the Earl Grey tea pervaded the rich dark chocolate square. Inside and alongside were dabs of caramel. Very good.

We both had the second dessert
Poire pochée vin rouge/Granité

This was a pretty version of a classic pear poached in red wine.

The restaurant was half-full and was very quiet; there was no music and no kitchen noise. The service was efficient, although a bit abrupt. The pace was just right. The interesting cuisine was a bargain at 62 €. We were glad we went.

2, rue Lapérouse
75116 Paris
01 49 52 10 10

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