L’Aphrodite, Nice 3
August 2, 2011
David Faure is one of the most versatile of the young chefs in Nice. He offers a menu with cutting edge cooking techniques. His regular menu includes at least one traditional niçois specialty in each course, although it may be updated. It also includes dishes with Asian or exotic influences. We went for dinner on June 14, 2011, with Pat and Karl. A table next to ours was having the molecular R…évolutionary menu so we were able to enjoy the special effects and smells. We ordered glasses of champagne. Thin breadsticks were put on the table with dips of tomato, brousse and something else.
We ordered the menu L’Inclination des Mets, three courses, with a choice of four dishes in each course, for 39 €.
The amuse-gueule was a
croustillant de blettes, tapenade
This is a modern version of the traditional niçois tarte aux blettes or chard tart. Nice.
We ordered a bottle of 2008 Cuvée du Loup, Domaine de Jas d’Esclans from the nearby Var. Good.
Karl’s first course was
La Salade Niçoise – “version 2011”
Tradition et évolution
Traditional ingredients of a salade niçoise were arranged like a modernistic sculpture. The cup had a cold cucumber soup.
Bouillabaisse figée pour des filets de Rougets
Ecume de Pomme de Terre, Rouille, Poutine et arrête croustillante
The filets of rougets were cooked nicely with crispy skin. They were well complemented by the fish-shaped pastry and unusual airy potato concoction.
Pat’s starter was
Foie Gras poêlé refroidi aux Sardines fumées, dentelles de Pain
Vrai & faux Œufs de Saumon, l’amertume du Radis pourpre
To add a smokey flavor to foie gras one melds it with smoked fish, sardines in this case. It fills faux maki sushi rolls and is dressed with salmon roe and radish shards. This unusual combination and presentation tasted very good.
My first course was
Rizzoccino…au Parmesan, Chantilly de Figatelle
Supions en persillade et Potiron craquant
The bottom of the jar contained small squid with pumpkin chunks. Above was a froth of cream flavored with parmesan and a Corsican sausage. The combination worked very well for me.
The main course for Pat, Linda and Karl was
Tronçon de Lotte juste rôti
Polenta crémeuse et Oignons blancs comme une Pissaladière
The monkfish was well prepared and tasted a lot better than it looks in the photo. The creamy polenta was superb.
My main was Filet de Bœuf, un jus au Wasabi
Nouilles Udon, Coriandre et Shiitake
The quality of the beef was excellent and it was perfectly cooked. The Japanese noodles, horseradish sauce and mushrooms were a coherent garnish. Very good.
Pat, Linda and Karl finished with
Les Fromages de Chèvre affinés selon nos soins
Cébettes, huile d’Olive, gelée de Violette et Raisins marinés
The three cheeses were an interesting selection, nicely enhanced by the unusual condiments: scallions, olive oil, marinated grapes and a jelly of violets.
My dessert was
Ananas rôti caramélisé aux Agrumes
Mini bouchons au Rhum et Fenouil graine, Sorbet Noix de Coco
This dessert was in keeping with my choices from the exotic offerings on the menu. The small babas and pineapple chunks were flamed with rum. The coconut sorbet went very well.
A tray of mignardises finished the meal.
These had various flavors, but were all too sweet.
We thoroughly enjoyed our meal. David Faure is a talented and versatile chef.
To see our meal at L’Aphrodite a year ago click here.
To see our molecular gastronomy meal at L’Aphrodite four years ago click here.