L’Hostellerie Jérôme, La Turbie, 6
August 9, 2011
We ordered a bottle of Domaine Hauvette white for our apéritif and first wine. We decided to order the big tasting menu so the quite good Hauvette was followed by an excellent bottle of Le-Clos-des-Mouches white wine from the Côte-de-Beaune. We later had a bottle of 2008 Domaine Hauvette red. We have enjoyed the red wine from Domaine Hauvette, near Saint Rémy before, but this bottle was uninteresting.
The appetizer was a plate of barbajuans, a deep-fried, vegetable-filled specialty of this area east of Nice.
Authentic and well done.
The amuse-gueule was duck pâté en croûte with a truffle-cream, as it always is here, happily.
The first course was
Pasta e fagioli, homard et foie gras
Mixing foie gras, lobster and a peasant dish like pasta and beans takes a lot of nerve, but this gave us a feeling that the menu would be special.
Composition de calamars grillés, peaux, fleurs, feuilles de courgettes
petites pâtes à l’encre
The strips of grilled squid were served with squid ink pasta. A flower, leaf and strips of the skin of zucchini added garden flavor and decoration.
Petit médaillon de loup dans une infusion de petits poissons de roche safranées
avec la terrine d’ail doux au gros sel
A piece of local sea bass was served with a broth of rock fish and saffron. Alongside was a mousse of saeet garlic and crisp artichoke slices. Very good.
Volaille élevée en complète liberté dans le Lauragais rôtie à la purée truffée
A piece of free-range chicken from Southwest France was served with a chunk of roasted foie gras and truffled mashed potatoes. Very good.
Pigeonneau aux olives noires, cèpes printaniers, réduction de vin de Bandol
A sliced squab breast was served with black olives, spring porcini and a glaze of pigeon stock and Bandol wine.
Basil enjoyed a selection of seven cheeses while Clare, Linda and I went on to the three desserts.
Les cerises Burlat de Provence gratinées aux amandes, à l’eau-de-vie
Seasonal cherries had been cooked in cherry eau-de-vie, topped with powdered almonds and served with vanilla ice cream.
Sorbet au mascarpone, fraises des bois dans leur jus tiède
Fresh little, wild strawberries were served with a sorbet of mascarpone.
Chocolat cuit nature dans un bouillon de pêches blanches « Bellini »
A chocolate disk was napped with white peach juice and topped with ice cream.
There were generous plates of good mignardises.
The menu was very enjoyable. It was consistent in its use of fresh, seasonal, local ingredients with respect to the traditions of local cuisine. But it was not at all stodgy; it was always lively and interesting. We had a very good time. Thank you, Basil and Clare.
The website of L’Hostellerie Jérôme: