WD-50, NYC 6

August 23, 2011

Russell and Kent joined Linda and me for dinner at WD-50 on July 6, 2011. This was our sixth time at WD-50, although we had not been for over two years. We were looking forward to trying new creations.

Linda and I started with glasses of ‘K’ Klur Alsatian pinot blanc crémat. A nice start.

Kent’s apéritif was a Gaffel kölsch beer. Kölsch beer can only be brewed within the city of Cologne. As the best-known kölsch brewery, Gaffel’s flavor is derived from an ale yeast that is “lagered” or aged in cold cellars. Gaffel is pale and faintly fruity with a crisp hop finish.

Russell had a ginger beer cocktail, the first of three.

The usual crispy sesame rice flatbreads were put on the table.

Russell was addicted to them.

We ordered a bottle of 2007 ‘Les Terrasses de l’Empire’ Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu.

It was rich and excellent. 

Our first course was
Fluke, parmesan, plum, radicchio

So we started right into Wylie’s combinations. Normally I would not combine fish with cheese or fruit, but this worked well with the plum bits keeping the palate awake for the quite ordinary fluke.

Everything bagel, smoked salmon threads, crispy cream cheese

This course, and the next one, were on the menu for our last two meals at WD-50 over two years ago. They have become signature dishes.  The bagel was actually a moulded bread ice cream. The sesame seeds were a new addition on top of the poppy seeds. The salmon is powdered and the cream cheese freeze-dried and made into a white wafer. Fun.

Foie gras, passionfruit, chinese celery

Inside the cold foie gras round is a coulis of passion fruit that makes a fine contrasting and complementary flavor trio with the foie gras and the Chinese celery.

Poached egg in the shell, pumpernickel, caesar dressing, lily bulb

The poached egg is not at all in the shell; it looks like a peeled soft-boiled egg. It releases a runny yolk when opened. The shell is made from edible kaolin clay. The Caesar dressing seemed to have a bit of anchovy, which sparked things up.

We started on a bottle of 2001 ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ Arcadian Pinot Noir.

Very good.  

King oyster ‘udon,’ sweetbreads, banana-molassas, pickled ginger

The faux noodles are made from strips of oyster mushrooms. The deep-fried sweetbread chunks added a crispy texture, if not much flavor. The caramel of the banana-molassas and the ginger were the flavors which came through. Exotic.

Tai snapper, onion tart, coffee, asian pear

The chunk of fish was fresh and well cooked, but, like the previous dish, the mix of exotic flavors, particularly the smoky tomato sauce, made this interesting.

Quail, nasturtium yogurt, sunchoke, nutmeg


Lamb loin, ‘red beans & rice,’ chayote squash

It was time for a dish with substance; this filled the bill, not just the luscious lamb loin, but the vegetables also. 

Celery ice cream, verjus, pistachio

A fine, flavorful palate cleanser. 

Apricot, buckwheat, rhubarb, green tea

This was sort of deconstructed Japan with buckwheat in ice cream instead of soba.

Soft chocolate, beet, long pepper, ricotta ice cream

This was a substantial dessert which made a statement. Very nice.

Rice krispy treats

The rice krispies have been frozen with ice cream; they contrast with the hot beignets with passion fruit. A fine ending.

Our meal was just what one expects at WD-50. I couldn’t complain about any of the courses. They each had imaginative conceptions, well executed with good ingredients. Only two of the dishes were not new to us. The service was attentive, friendly and knowledgable. The pace was good, occasionally a bit too rapid.

We had an excellent dinner and conversation, but our meal did not leave Linda and me with the exhilarated feeling we had enjoyed two, three and four years ago. I don’t know if Wylie has lost has spark or his novelty. Maybe we are too saturated with fabulous innovations after two trips to Flanders and one to Copenhagen this year.

Russell, Linda and Kent posed for a photo in front afterwards.


To see all of our WD-50 blogposts click here. 

One Response to “WD-50, NYC 6”

  1. Karen Says:

    The sweetbread dish looked and sounded delicious!

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