Boulud Sud, NYC
September 6, 2011
Daniel Boulud is one of New York’s best known and most successful chefs. Boulud Sud is the latest of his many restaurants. It is across Broadway from Lincoln Center, around the corner from his older Bar Boulud. The theme is cuisines from all around the Mediterranean. Kent joined Linda and me for dinner on July 16, 2011, before a raucous concert by the Cleveland Orchestra of Bruckner’s Symphony Number 8. The décor is sleek modern with a view into the busy kitchen through the entire long side wall. These were the views from my seat.
Linda started with a glass of PIERRE PAILLARD, ”Cuvee Daniel,” Grand Cru, Brut Nv Champagne. The apéritif for Kent and me was RAVENTOS I BLANC, Cava Reserva “l’hereu” NV . A basket of various fresh, warm foccacias and a dish of olive oil were put on the table.
We ordered a bottle of DOMAINE HAUVETTE, Les Baux De Provence 2004 red wine. Although we had been very disappointed with the last bottle we had from this vineyard, the 2008 Vintage at L’Hostellerie Jérôme, we found this one to be in good form. The extra years helped a lot.
Linda’s first course was
This rabbit terrine was a good summer starter. No surprises.
Kent started with
Artichoke, Fennel and Celery Salad
These freshly shredded vegetables were lightly dressed and made an interesting, unusual salad.
My starter was
OCTOPUS A LA PLANCHA
Marcona Almonds, Arugula, Jerez Vinegar
The octopus was tender and flavorful. The powdered almond coating was a crisp substitute for the more normal charring.
Linda’s main course was
CHARRED WAGYU TOP SIRLOIN
Salsa Verde, Crushed Fava
The beef had a nice flavor, but did not seem like Wagyu. It was not tender or well-marbled.
SPICED GRASS-FED LAVA LAKE LAMB
Algerian Eggplant, Yoghurt, Lavash
The lamb was flavorful and nicely enhanced by the restrained spicing of the eggplant purée. The lavash crisp added crunch.
GRILLED SHORT RIB
Haricots au Vert d”herbes
The grilling was understated and the ribs lacked the caramelization I had expected. The mélange of several types of green beans was nice.
Linda skipped dessert. Kent’s was
MOROCCAN MINT-CHOCOLATE PAVÉ
Pine Nuts, Jasmine Flower, Chocolate Sorbet
This was excellent. The crunchy chocolate square was lightly flavored with mint, while the sorbet was a rich dark chocolate.
My dessert was
Rosemary-Poached Bing Cherries, Semolina Cake, Goat & Yogurt Sorbet
This dessert was also as good as it looks. The poached cherries were full of flavor. They were nicely offset by the creamy sorbet ball on top of the grainy disk of cake.
Our meal was enjoyable, with dishes originating in Italy, Spain, France, Morocco and Algeria. The cuisine seemed authentically Mediterranean, but it had been tamed a bit for American palates. The service was good and the pace right for a pre-concert meal. There is an enormous staff in both the dining room and the kitchen. Every table was taken. I imagine that most are used three times each evening. Boulud Sud is a fine addition to Lincoln Center dining.
Linda and Kent posed for a photo on the way out. They were really happier than the photo indicates.