Mirazur, Menton 6
January 31, 2012
On October 8, 2011, Linda and I returned to Mirazur for lunch with Tony. It had been two years since our previous visit.
We were seated by the window with an excellent view of old Menton and the Mediterranean Sea. The hors d’oeuvres arrived right away: a black rice chip with a diced garnish, a beet chip with goat cheese and a smoked mozzarella ball.
A warm bread to share and a dipping saucer of chef Mauro Colagreco’s olive oil with lemon and ginger was put on the table.
The bread was warm and fresh, but a bit spongy, which helped the dipping. Ginger is unusual with olive oil, but it was interesting. A bread basket was passed later.
The menu had no listing of dishes, just undescribed menus at different prices. We chose the one at 85 €. The course titles below are mine.
We ordered a bottle of 2008 Château Bas “Le Temple,” This pleasant white wine is made from sauvignon, rolle and grenache. The name refers to a Roman temple at the vineyard north of Aix-en-Provence. We also ordered a bottle of water, which turned out to be Châteldon 1650. The 1650 date refers to this being the water which Louis XIV had delivered to Versailles on muleback from the Auvergne.
The first course was
sea urchins with saffron and a coriander foam.
The briny taste of the four sea urchins inside came through nicely, enhanced by the mild flavorings.
Trumpet zucchini ribbons with peach wedges and pink shrimp.
This is a signature dish of Mirazur when in season. It is easy to do with a vegetable peeler if you have fresh trumpet zucchini; I have imitated it at home.
A risotto of quinoa with girolles, porcini stems, white truffles and torn parsley brioche with a parmesan and potato sauce.
This was designed to give us the effect of a walk in the forest and largely succeeded in its flavors, aromas and visual effect. We had trouble identifying the creative brioche and had to ask what it was.
Filet of daurade with a shellfish emulsion and a purée of celery root.
This was a straightforward dish which did not try to do too much to a good fresh piece of local fish.
A filet of Argentine Black Angus with various vegetable rounds.
As opposed to the previous dish, I would have preferred more of an effort to enhance the beef. It had a nice flavor, but seemed somewhat spartan. The vegetables were nicely cooked and presented, but seemed separate from the meat.
Orange sorbet with an almond foam, saffron cream and a piece of orange flower brioche.
This was a light and refreshing predessert with coherent local flavors.
Little round carrot cakes topped with wild carrot flans, melon/carrot sorbet and sauce.
This was an unusual combination unified by color. Good.
A nice finish.
Once again chef Mauro Colagreco served us a lovely meal in a lovely setting. The vegetables and decorative herbs and flowers come from his own gardens, which have recently been expanded. His cuisine is designed to show them off. There were several modern and inventive touches in this meal, but they did not dominate.
To see our previous meals at Mirazur click here.