Mirazur, Menton 7
November 13, 2012
Steve and his Linda invited my Linda and me to dinner at Mirazur on September 26, 2012. Steve is well known to many of the world’s top chefs, so we were warmly greeted by chef Mauro Colagreco. He said he would construct a menu for us.
Glasses of Champagne and several amuse-gueules started the evening.
Tartar on a chip; purée of Jerusalem artichoke on a crisp Jerusalem artichoke chip. I don’t remember the others, but they were good.
Steve ordered two bottles of excellent white wine to accompany our meal.
A freshly baked loaf of “sharing bread,” an Argentine custom, arrived with Mirazur’s lemon and ginger olive oil.
The first course was
Huître au concombre
Two oysters were served with scoops of a cold cucumber purée, cucumber rolls, shallot cream, seaweed etc.
Carpaccio de Mulet
Pêche et basilic
A round of raw mullet was topped with a lemon sauce, various vegetable rounds and a peach sphere.
Fraîcheur de tomates
Chunks of various summer tomatoes and a scoop of tomato sorbet were served in a bowl of cool tomato water. The fresh flavors really stood out in this dish.
Œuf de Canne
Purée de choux fleur et anguille fumée
A duck eggshell had been refilled with its yolk, cauliflower purée, a hazelnut and smoked eel, creating a lovely rich flavor combination.
Et son bouillon à la réglisse
Three clams were served in their juices enhanced with liquorice and crisp green beans.
Sauce safran et purée de citron
Mussels were sauced with saffron from the nearby town of Sospel. A mild purée of Menton lemons continued the color combination and local touch.
«La forêt »
Risotto de quinoa, champignons de saison et crème parmesan
We were each given a stone with a small mound of this walk in the woods. A slate with more of it was placed before each couple to share. The presentation included cooked cèpes, thin raw cèpe slices, enoki mushrooms, torn parsley brioche, crystalline potato chips, a quinoa risotto and parmesan cream. Nice.
Oignon confit et haricot coco, consommé à la camomille
The lobster pieces were dressed with smoked foam. They were served on confit onions, white coco beans and a camomille broth.
A fresh piece of turbot was placed on top of chick peas in an onion flavored broth.
Légumes rôtis et sauce sésame
A smooth, luscious, flavorful piece of veal cut from a whole grilled rib was served on a sesame sauce with rich butter-cooked salsify and parsnips.
At this point Steve’s question to the chef of how he was able to get such a silky texture in the veal by grilling, rather than sous-vide cooking, created an invitation to the kitchen.
We were shown a whole rib of veal which had been grilled very slowly. In the foreground you can see the pans for the butter roasting of the salsify and parsnips.
Gelée de shiso et espuma à la reine des prés
Diced pineapple and pineapple sorbet were served with a shiso gel and a meadowsweet foam.
Canelloni de coriandre
Soupe de pommes et sorbet yaourt
Diced pieces and a slice of green apple were served in green apple juice with a corander canneloni and a scoop of yoghurt sorbet.
Mousse de lait de chèvre
Sorbet concombre et meringue à la verveine
I seem to have forgotten to take a photo of this. Goat cheese tiles were accompanied by a cucumber sorbet and verveine flavored meringue.
The mignardises were rich dark chocolate twigs hiding in real ones;
We enjoyed a lovely evening. The chef served us a selection of dishes which were representative of his local cuisine with many seasonal ingredients from his kitchen garden. There were no disappointments among them. The menu reflected the transition from summer (cucumbers, tomatoes) to autumn (cèpes, parsnips.) I have made fewer comments than usual above as my notetaking was curtailed by the vibrant conversation with Steve and Linda as well as the visits to our table by the genial chef.
To see all of our blogposts on Mirazur click here.