The Modern, NYC 2
January 22, 2013
When Linda and I went to The Modern over five years ago, we did not think that it lived up to its Michelin star and high Zagat rating. But the star and high ratings continue so we returned on November 28, 2012, to try it again. After all, it is a Danny Meyer restaurant; they usually do not disappoint. We were seated at a table along the window looking out to the sculpture garden. We started with glasses of Michel Loriot, Réserve, Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Champagne. Two little hors d’œuvres in spoons arrived, along with a bowl of popcorn and cauliflower soup with a pomegranate seed in a little tube.
The amuse-gueule was a broccoli royale with gruyère and pine nut crumble.
The normal offering is a four course menu with plenty of choices in each course, but we decided to try the Chef’s Tasting Menu. We ordered a half-bottle of Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2009 and a bottle of Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast 2009 Pinot Noir. They were very enjoyable and went well with the cuisine.
The first menu course was
“PRALINES” OF FOIE GRAS TERRINE
Mango Purée and Balsamic Vinegar
Very cold foie gras was formed into little spheres and rolled in poppy seed. They were served on a mango smear accompanied by a piece of freshly grilled toast. A nice start.
Tarragon-Cucumber Salad and Lemon Gelée
Some good langoustines were overwhelmed by a complicated dish. Any one of the garnishes, by itself and in moderation, would have enhanced the langoustine .
STURGEON AND SAUERKRAUT TART
American Caviar Mousseline and Applewood Smoke
This pretty little tart was served under a bell which released fragrant applewood smoke when lifted. While the sauerkraut was not strong, it still had enough punch to dominate the other tastes.
POACHED FARM EGG
Black Winter Truffle, Salsify, and Squid Ink Spaetzle
A nicely truffled poached farm egg could have been very nice, but it was submerged in all the frou frou. What a waste of expensive truffles.
TRIO OF DESSERTS
I guess it is a matter of taste. Some people appreciate, or are impressed by, very complex preparations. Some of us do not. I have the impression that the ingredients were quite good here, but it was hard to tell. Well, Danny Meyer has no reason to change The Modern as plenty of people like it and the ratings are good, alas.
To see the blogpost on our meal at The Modern five years before click here.