Del Posto, NYC 3
February 12, 2013
When Linda and I last went to Del Posto almost two years ago, we had a somewhat mixed reaction, so it was with considerable curiosity that we returned on January 20, 2013, with Blair and Karyn.
After being seated, we ordered a bottle of Franciacorta sparkling wine, CA’ DEL BOSCO Brut Cuvée Prestige NV: a good start. A plate of hors d’œuvres was put on the table: a little cup of warm cauliflower and leek vellutata soup, a cod bacalao chip and a little chicken salad sandwich.
A basket of warm breads, butter and lardo with garlic arrived.
We ordered the “Captain’s Menu,” selections by the chef from the à la carte menu. After extensive consultation with the knowledgeable, helpful and friendly sommelier, we ordered a bottle of white wine and one of red. The first was under the label of one of Del Posto’s owners: BASTIANICH Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai Plus 2006; this typical wine from Italy’s northeast corner was slightly spicy and went well with the early courses. It was followed by a Barolo: ROCCHE DEI MANZONI “Big” 1999. I would not normally order such a young Barolo, but the sommelier assured me that it would be lovely, rich and drinking well after she put it in a carafe. She was right.
The first course was
Insalata di VERDURE:
Brutte ma Buone with Robiola, Swiss Chard & Sour Apple
This “ugly, but good” combination of winter vegetables and fruit was nicely unified by the soft Piemontese cheese and sweet carrot crumble underneath. Very nice.
with Giant Beans, Cipolline Onions, Meyer Lemon & Parsley
The flavor of the chunks of lobster meat was nicely brought out by the mild seasonal garnishes.
with Salsify & Bay Leaf Salt
Underneath the froth on top was a clear consomme; both had good porcini flavor. At the bottom of the bowl were porcini and salsify chunks.
with Parsnip, Espresso & Grana Padano
The hand-made agnolotti were filled with spiced ground veal. They were well matched with and enhanced by the seasonal parsnip purée. Excellent.
Wild Striped BASS
with Soft Sunchokes, Wilted Romaine & Occelli Butter
The striped bass had been roasted whole on the bone and then sliced, bringing out its flavor. The butter underneath is from the Piemontese Alps. Continuing with seasonal winter garnishes was both good and appropriate.
Heritage PORK TRIO
with Ribollita alla Casella & Black Cabbage Stew
A pork loin was wrapped in pancetta and topped with braised pork rib. It was served with a sauce evoking a hearty Tuscan winter stew.
RICOTTA Ginepro, Abruzzo, Eucalyptus Honey
This ricotta had been smoked over juniper wood and aged two months. The honey went well with its slight bitterness. The charred brioche added crunch. Nice.
We each had a different dessert.
There were butterscotch, chestnut, fruit and a lot of chocolate.
Mignardises were served on a box cheese grater:
Our meal had been very enjoyable. The first five courses of the menu were exceptionally good. The common Italian themes and fresh, varied seasonal ingredients worked very well; they made the meal coherent. The service was efficient and friendly; the live piano music was enjoyable; the tables are nicely spaced. Bravo.
To see our blogpost on our meal at Del Posto two years ago click here.
To see our blogpost on our meal at Del Posto three years ago click here.