La Chèvre d’Or, Eze 2

September 30, 2014

On September 28, 2014, Linda and I joined Steve Plotnicki at La Chèvre d’Or, where he was staying. We have been dining there occasionally for over thirty years, but our meal six years before was very disappointing and we had not been back since. We were looking forward to seeing if Ronan Kervarrec, promoted from sous-chef to top chef last year, had made a difference.

Arriving early, we sat on the terrace outside the bar overlooking the last rays of the sunset and St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat with glasses of 2002 Pommery Cuvée Louise Brut Millesime Champagne and a little tray of hors d’œuvres.
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Lovely.

After Steve came up from his room, we moved up to the dining room. Four exquisite, warm amuse-gueules arrived.
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A loaf of sharing bread with olive oil for dipping was put on the table.
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Excellent comfort food.

We looked at the menus and decided on the Menu Collection «Mer et Océan »  We ordered a bottle of 2010 Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc. It had good, earthy white burgundy characteristics and went very well with the seafood cuisine. A basket of excellent breads was offered.
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The first course was
Pouce-Pied de l’Atlantique,
Marinière de légumes aux moules de bouchot.
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Cultivated mussels rested on a mixture of small vegetables in a green herb/mussel broth. A seafood cream was added. The flavors were fresh and maritime. A decorated pouce-pied de l’Atlantique, or goose barnacle, was served alongside on a delicate black rice cracker with shards of black brioche. We were instructed to extract it from its shell and dip it in the cream before eating. As you might expect, it was chewy, but with a strong flavor of the sea.

.
Gamberoni de San Remo,
Justes voilées, raviole iodée et jus d’une bisque.
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A pink shrimp from the deep waters off nearby San Remo was served on a raviolo filled with diced seafood. Underneath was a slightly spicy seafood bisque. Excellent; too bad there was only one, but that is what one expects in a tasting menu.

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Palourdes grises,
Farcies d’une duxelle à la provençale.
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Three large clams had been baked covered with diced mushrooms, shallots and  green herbs. Nicely done.

.
Poulpe de Méditerranée,
Au court-bouillon, puis grillé,
Polenta crémeuse au citron-safran de Patricia Orengo de Sospel.
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Slices of local octopus had been marinated and then grilled. They were served under a seafood foam on top of a creamy round of polenta flavored with local lemon and saffron. 

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Colinot de ligne,
Poché et glacé d’un beurre vin rouge, concombre glacé.
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A filet of young hake was poached and glazed with a red wine butter. It was served with decorated glazed cucumber. Pretty and good.

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Le Chocolat,
Glace chocolat « Guanaja 70% » sur son sablé cacao.
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The pre-dessert was a small ball of dark chocolate ice cream dusted with cocoa powder. Linda was served the same with coconut instead of chocolate, but she doesn’t care for coconut and I do, so we happily exchanged.

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La Pêche,
Panna cotta à la vanille Bourbon de Madagascar,
tartare de pêches à la verveine.
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Peach slices flavored with verbena were served on a vanilla panna cotta. 

We were offered the dessert specialty of the house to share.
La Création,
Vision d’un citron de Menton.
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A faux lemon with a candy crust was filled with delicious lemon-flavored mousse. A meringue was alongside.


The mignardises trolley was wheeled up.
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I selected one based on pistachio, which was superb, and one with wild strawberries.

This meal was certainly very different from our meal at La Chèvre d’Or six years before. The cuisine was perfectly executed with top quality ingredients. There was a certain local feel to it, but it wandered in ingredients and style. One could also sense the chef’s Breton roots. It was not especially inventive, but there was imagination; it was not the same old upscale tourist hotel fare. The service was good and the pace right, although I seldom understood the course descriptions announced as they were served. The dining room is designed to show off the view from its large windows, but that had disappeared after the sunset in late September. The clientèle was mostly foreign, but nicely dressed, quiet and seemingly appreciative of the cuisine. Even the price, while expensive, did not seem out of order for what we enjoyed.

http://www.chevredor.com

To see our meal six years before at La Chèvre d’Or click here.

 

One Response to “La Chèvre d’Or, Eze 2”

  1. Diane Montgomery Says:

    I am so happy to read this review as about 5 years ago I took friends there and had a terrible meal. I vowed never to return.


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