Gôra Kadan, Day 2
January 27, 2015
My blogpost on Day One at Gôra Kadan, reported on the setting and our room. It went on to describe the lavish kaiseki meal served to us there. We had a good night’s sleep and started Day Two, October 30, 2014, with a copious Japanese breakfast, served to us by Keiko on the table in our living room.
There was orange juice and tea.
On the right is an umeboshi, a popular dried, pickled Japanese apricot (ume) made from the June crop. They are very salty and sour due to their natural citric acid.
After this hearty breakfast, we changed into our street clothes and walked to the Gora train station where we took a funicular up the hill and then a suspended gondola to Owakudani (大涌谷), in the crater created during the last eruption of Mount Hakone some 3000 years ago. The area is an active volcanic zone where working sulfur mines and steaming hot springs can be seen. Eggs boiled in the springs turn black and are a popular attraction. This was our view of Mount Fuji from Owakudani.
In the afternoon we walked to the Hakone Open Air Museum, which displays a wide variety of modern sculpture in a garden setting with a mountain backdrop. There is also an extensive, high quality Picasso exhibit. in its own building
Then we relaxed, taking advantage of our private onsen hot bath and dressed for our evening meal in our room.
Keiko brought the bottle of Kiwame Daiginjo sake which we had ordered. Like the evening before, there was a printed English menu from which the course titles below are taken.
Called karasumi in Japanese, the block of roe resembles what we call bottarga. It goes very well with the sticky rice, which tames its dry saltiness.
Boiling is not what I think of as the best way to cook mushrooms, but these were nice, made interesting by the soy sauce.
Pike conger, matsutake mushroom, mille and gluten cake, gingko nuts, and mitsuba parsley, cooked in a dobin (earthenware teapot) with sudachi citrus
The basic dashi broth was well enhanced by the various ingredients.
Thinly sliced taro (fatty tuna) serving with wasabi and tosa soy-sauce
The fresh wasabi in the yellow balls had been mixed with a starchy binder, but was still strong. The soy sauce underneath had shaved bonito and kelp added to it. In the back right are alfalfa sprouts.
Grilled tilefish with white miso sauce, lily bulb dumpling, and burdock wrapped in sliced wagyu beef
Deep-fried lotus root and duck sandwich, arrowhead, and fushimi sweet green pepper serving with sudachi citrus and seaweed salt
The tempura lotus root and duck sandwich was great. The fried pepper had just the right pungent flavor to spark up the dish.
We certainly enjoyed our stay at Gôra Kadan, which combines the best qualities of a ryokan and Relais & Châteaux.
To see our blogpost on Day One at Gôra Kadan click here.