Lincoln, NYC 3
May 19, 2015
We enjoy dining at Lincoln Ristorante before performances at Lincoln Center, but it had been over four years since I since I last posted a meal there on this blog when Linda and I returned for dinner on April 22, 2015.
After being seated, Linda enjoyed a glass of champagne while I had a glass of prosecco. The bread basket was passed. We took a piece of focaccia to enjoy with the excellent charred eggplant spread and olive oil for dipping.
We ordered the four-course prix fixe menu at $76, a real bargain by New York standards. From the recommended wine list we ordered a bottle of 2009 Rosso Piceno Superiore, Velenosi ‘Roggio del Filare,’ (Marche.) This blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Montepulciano was very good and a complement to the cuisine.
Linda’s first course was
CRISPY SWEETBREADS, FENNEL, CAPERS,
LEMON, BROWN BUTTER, ALMONDS
Three luscious deep-fried nuggets of sweetbreads were just the right temperature when served covered with sliced almonds and dressed up with two stalks of cooked young fennel. The fennel added an extra crunchiness to this excellent dish. A superb way to prepare sweetbreads. Bravo.
SARDINE ALLA GRIGLIA
GRILLED SARDINE, GREEN ALMONDS,
HEARTS OF PALM, CARROT PUREE
This was really large for a sardine, but its flavor, enhanced by the perfectly timed grilling was characteristic. The imaginative carrot purée was slightly over-spiced and the green almond slices slightly over-pickled for my taste, but the dish was a success.
Linda’s pasta was
RAVIOLI DI PISELLI E ORTICA
PEA, NETTLE AND RICOTTA FILLED PASTA
MORELS, BROWN BUTTER
The fresh ravioli alternated between pea and ricotta filling. They were excellent in their light butter sauce, dressed with very fresh peas and pea tendrils. Soft, butter-tossed morels capped this excellent dish.
My pasta was
PROSCIUTTO AND DRIED FAVA BEAN FILLED PASTA, SAGE, BROWN BUTTER, PECORINO TOSCANO
The prosciutto flavored fava bean purée inside the pasta envelopes was nicely enhanced by the sage and brown butter sauce in which they were tossed. The pecorino successfully completed this classic combination.
The secondi for both of us was
LOIN CHOP AND PRESSÉ OF SPRING LAMB,
ARTICHOKES, HEIRLOOM CARROTS, EGGPLANT PUREE, SALSA VERDE
The grilled lamb chop was top quality, pink inside and flavorful on its own, but the eggplant purée underneath was a good, understated enhancement. In the back left you can see a block of well cooked shredded lamb which had been crisped up, providing a nice, meaty contrast. Its spiced herb and olive oil sauce was appropriately robust. The carrots of various colors went well.
I finished with an espresso to help keep me awake at the theater.
Our meal was really very good: interesting consistent with top quality ingredients and an authentically Italian feeling. The service was efficient and friendly; the pace was just right to get us out the door in time for our play next door.
To see all of our meals at Lincoln Ristorante click here.