Ristorante Bovio, La Morra 3
November 10, 2015
Eight years ago Linda and I enjoyed the six-course Menù del tartufo bianco di Alba at Ristorante Belvedere in La Morra. Shortly afterwards, the Bovio family moved their restaurant down the hill to land above their own vineyards. Linda and I have been back every two years since then for this white truffle menu. This year we returned on October 19, 2015, with Blair and Karyn.
We were quite disappointed to find that the six-course white truffle menu will not start until mid-November this year due to the small early crop after a hot, dry summer and expanding worldwide demand. However, there was an ample à la carte selection of white truffle dishes which we could include in our selections.
We started with glasses of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene. The wine list is enormous, but here we always drink the Barolos of the Bovio vineyards. With the help of the sommelier, we chose the 2000 and 2008 vintages of Barolo Vigna Gattera Gianfranco Bovio.
The 2000 was from a less powerful and more elegant year and was well aged. The 2008 was from a more powerful year; it was ready for drinking, but could improve and last for many years. Both had typical, and excellent, Barolo characteristics.
Our first course was
Insalata tiepida di quaglia, castagne,
il suo uovo fritto e tartufo bianco.
Half of a roasted quail, still warm, was served with a fried quail egg, chestnut bits and a slice of parmesan on top of salad greens. A plate of white truffles was brought to the table and one was shaved on the salad. Nice.
Uovo in pasta alla Bergese con tartufo bianco
This dish was invented by Nino Bergese, chef to Italian royalty and aristocracy. An egg on a bed of chopped spinach and ricotta is enclosed in a large raviolo and lightly poached. Parmesan and the white truffles are shaved over it. Traditional and very nice.
Tagliolini ai 40 tuorli con tartufo bianco
This pasta dough is prepared with forty egg yolks for each kilogram of flour. It is cut very thin, cooked quickly and dressed simply with good butter before the white truffles are shaved on it. Lovely.
Blair and Karyn’s meat course was
Il classico brasato di manzo fassone piemontese al Barolo.
A piece of beef from the local Fassano breed was braised in Barolo wine and served with its braising liquid as sauce.
Linda and I had
Capretto di Alta Langa arrostito al forno con verdure
Pieces of baby goat from nearby Alta Langa had been roasted until the skin was crackling and delicious. The meat was still flavorful and moist. The carrots, potatoes and green beans were quite ordinary, but the coarse polenta added an appropriate touch.
The ladies skipped dessert. Blair had
Sformato al cioccolato Gobino blend 75%
con gelato al pistacchio
An airy, round custard cake was made from extra bitter chocolate produced by artisanal chocolatier Guido Gobino in nearby Torino. It was served on sabayon alongside fruit and pistachio ice cream.
My dessert was
Savarin di nocciole, zabajone al Moscato e il suo gelato
The round hazelnut yeast cake was on a bed of sabayon of Moscato wine. On top was a scoop of hazelnut ice cream. Very local and very good. (Hazelnuts are the most important local crop after nebiollo grapes.)
This was the view of the dining room as we departed. Our table was the one in the back corner with the two empty Barolo bottles.
We had a very good meal despite the lack of the six-course menu. In fact, it might have been better as three truffle courses set the stage amply; the excellent capretto would not have been served with truffles and the desserts would not have been so accomplished. The service, pace and ambiance were all very good.
The restaurant’s website:
To see our meal at Ristorante Belvedere in 2007 click here.
To see our meal at Ristorante Bovio in 2009 click here.
I did not put up a blogpost on our 2013 meal as it was almost the same as in 2011.