Locanda Fontanazza and Osteria Veglio, La Morra
December 1, 2015
On October 20, 2015, Blair, Karyn, Linda and I had lunch at Locanda Fontanazza, on the southeast outskirts of La Morra.
We ordered a bottle of 2011 Vietti Castiglione Barolo.
Karyn started with
Filetti di peperone “Cuneo” al forno
ripieni di pate di tonno, acciughe e capperi.
Red and yellow peppers from nearby Cuneo are known for their hard, fleshy, crispy pulp. These had been oven roasted and the filets rolled around mashed tuna, anchovies and capers. Very good.
Sformato di carote e nociole con crema
di Parmigiano D.o.p. 24 mesi
This flan was made with carrots and hazelnuts bound with a cream of aged parmesan cheese before baking in a mold. Very good.
The others went on to
Tajarin al ragù di rosto di vitello.
These egg noodles are a regional specialty. Here they were dressed with a sauce of a veal roast and its drippings. Grated parmesan was added at the table. Very good.
The evening of the next day we had dinner at Osteria Veglio, just down the hill from La Morra. Linda and I had dined there two years ago and liked it a lot. It has since been sold and so we were interested in how the new owners were doing.
Karyn and Linda started with
Crudo di tonno rosso “Sicilia”, verdure croccanti e carciofini.
Slices of raw, red tuna were garnished with artichoke pieces, other lightly cooked vegetables and olive oil.
Blair and I had
Capunet tradizionale con salsiccia di Bra e vellutata di zucca.
Savoy cabbage leaves were stuffed with a local sausage and baked. They were halved and served on a bed of creamy pumpkin purée. Nice.
Karyn’s main course was
Gnocchi di patate della Val Varaita al Parmigiano.
These gnocchi were made from potatoes grown in a high valley in the nearby Alps. The were dressed in a parmesan cream.
Guancia di vitella al Barolo, patate all’olio extravergine.
A veal cheek must be cooked slowly for a long time to break down the cartilages, but the result is rich and delicious. Here it was served on top of an olive oil potato purée napped with the Barolo braising liquid.
Linda and I had
Agnolotti del plin al sugo d’arrosto.
Traditional agnolotti of the region were filled with finely chopped leftovers and trimmings of roast veal and pork. They were lightly tossed in a sauce of pan juices. The fluted edge comes from a plin, the wheel used to cut the pasta dough. They were topped with a little grated parmesan. I imagine that the preparation of these was close to the tradition. They were very good.
Having eaten a lot in the last three days, we skipped dessert.
The new owners seem to have continued Osteria Veglio as a fine, enjoyable, informal, traditional restaurant or trattoria. Perhaps the cuisine is a little more refined than it was before. The service was friendly and efficient. The pace was fine and the noise level not bad considering all the people having a good time.
The restaurant’s website
To see our meal at Osteria Veglio two years before click here.