Osteria del Beuc & Trattoria del Vapore, Cernobbio

December 15, 2015

We enjoyed staying two nights at the famous Villa d’Este on Lake Como. We dined there the first night, but did not feel like repeating our disappointing experience at its La Veranda restaurant. The  lovely town of Cernobbio is a short walk from the hotel. Linda went shopping there in the morning of October 23, 2015. She scouted some restaurants and made reservations for our lunch and dinner.

Here is the view of our hotel from the dock in Cernobbio where the lake boats make regular stops on their bus-like rounds of the towns along the shore.
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Our lunch was at Osteria del Beuc in the middle of town.
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The restaurant was very busy, but Linda had stopped in to reserve when she was shopping in Cernobbio that morning. We were seated at a table in the quieter back room with a view over the next table, through an interior window, into the front room with its bar and a full, animated crowd of local regulars.
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The limited menu was posted on the chalkboard you can see at the left.
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I ordered a quarter-litre of the house red wine. Fresh bread arrived in a brown paper bag.
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We both started with bresaola with arugula and a slice of parmesan.
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Simple, but good. 

Linda had a risotto with taleggio cheese and uncooked chunks of pears, which added some crunch and a complementary distinct flavor.
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Very good.

I had a plate of spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino.
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The garlic and red pepper flakes had been infused in the oil and removed; the spaghetti was simply tossed in it. A pure, classic Italian dish, well done.

Coffee finished the meal and kept me alert for our walk after lunch around town and back to our hotel.
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Osteria del Beuc was at the opposite end of the Italian dining spectrum from La Veranda at the Villa d’Este. It was just right for us that day.



The Tattoria del Vapore was opened in 1894 in an inn dating back to the seventeenth century. It gets its name from the lake steamships which stop routinely at the nearby Cernobbio dock.

I took this photo as we walked by after lunch that day. It was, of course, dark when we walked back for dinner.
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We were seated in the back of the front room. The restaurant soon filled up and people without reservations were turned away.
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We had glasses of a regional sparkling wine while we looked at the menu. We did not take advantage of an insert in the menu which offered white truffles on five dishes. We had enjoyed a lot of them for the past four days. The diners at the table next to us had white truffles shaved onto plates of sunny-side up fried eggs.

We ordered a bottle of 2007 Coste Rubin Fontanafredda Barbaresco. Good.
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We both started with
Linguine con funghi porcini freschi.
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With all the emphasis on white truffles, we had neglected porcini mushrooms, which are also in season. This was an excellent example which really showed off their flavor.

Linda had
Cotelettini di agnello scottadito
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Scottadito means burned fingers. Lamb chops scottadito are supposed to be so delicious that you can’t resist eating them sizzling hot, straight from the grill and burning your fingers. These were good, but not that hot and Linda enjoyed them slowly with a knife and fork.

I had
Coteletto alla milanese con battuta di pomodoro fresco e rucola.
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While we were in the region I could not resist trying a breaded and fried veal chop Milanese. It was quite dry and heavy, relieved by the diced fresh tomatoes under it and the arugula on top.

We had a very enjoyable evening and recommend Tattorie del Vapore to anyone staying in the area.




One Response to “Osteria del Beuc & Trattoria del Vapore, Cernobbio”

  1. Stephen Says:

    Yes, I would not stay or eat at Villa d’Este, but a wonderful if expensive place for a drink.

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