Osteria del Beuc & Trattoria del Vapore, Cernobbio
December 15, 2015
We enjoyed staying two nights at the famous Villa d’Este on Lake Como. We dined there the first night, but did not feel like repeating our disappointing experience at its La Veranda restaurant. The lovely town of Cernobbio is a short walk from the hotel. Linda went shopping there in the morning of October 23, 2015. She scouted some restaurants and made reservations for our lunch and dinner.
Our lunch was at Osteria del Beuc in the middle of town.
The restaurant was very busy, but Linda had stopped in to reserve when she was shopping in Cernobbio that morning. We were seated at a table in the quieter back room with a view over the next table, through an interior window, into the front room with its bar and a full, animated crowd of local regulars.
I had a plate of spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino.
The garlic and red pepper flakes had been infused in the oil and removed; the spaghetti was simply tossed in it. A pure, classic Italian dish, well done.
Coffee finished the meal and kept me alert for our walk after lunch around town and back to our hotel.
Osteria del Beuc was at the opposite end of the Italian dining spectrum from La Veranda at the Villa d’Este. It was just right for us that day.
The Tattoria del Vapore was opened in 1894 in an inn dating back to the seventeenth century. It gets its name from the lake steamships which stop routinely at the nearby Cernobbio dock.
We were seated in the back of the front room. The restaurant soon filled up and people without reservations were turned away.
We had glasses of a regional sparkling wine while we looked at the menu. We did not take advantage of an insert in the menu which offered white truffles on five dishes. We had enjoyed a lot of them for the past four days. The diners at the table next to us had white truffles shaved onto plates of sunny-side up fried eggs.
We ordered a bottle of 2007 Coste Rubin Fontanafredda Barbaresco. Good.
We both started with
Linguine con funghi porcini freschi.
With all the emphasis on white truffles, we had neglected porcini mushrooms, which are also in season. This was an excellent example which really showed off their flavor.
Cotelettini di agnello scottadito
Scottadito means burned fingers. Lamb chops scottadito are supposed to be so delicious that you can’t resist eating them sizzling hot, straight from the grill and burning your fingers. These were good, but not that hot and Linda enjoyed them slowly with a knife and fork.
Coteletto alla milanese con battuta di pomodoro fresco e rucola.
While we were in the region I could not resist trying a breaded and fried veal chop Milanese. It was quite dry and heavy, relieved by the diced fresh tomatoes under it and the arugula on top.
We had a very enjoyable evening and recommend Tattorie del Vapore to anyone staying in the area.