Lincoln, NYC 4

April 26, 2016

We go to Lincoln Ristorante frequently as it is in Lincoln Center where we often attend opera, theater, concerts etc. But I do not usually put up a blogpost as pre-curtain meals can be rushed. But on February 9, 2016, Linda and I dined at Lincoln at 7:45 after a  6.00 new opera production (Roberto Devereux) panel.

We were seated at a table with a good view toward the west.
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On the left you can see the Lincoln Center Theater. On the right is the Julliard School. You can see the new bridge across 65th Street connecting the two.  The pre-theater diners had left and it was quiet. When I asked our server about a glass of prosecco, she proposed one of their prosecco cocktails. She suggested Cima di Conegliano Extra Dry Prosecco with passion fruit purée and Liquore King’s Ginger. I agreed. It was really delicious with the ginger making it like an adult candy, sparkling, spicy and not sweet.  Linda started with a Bellini, in the spirit of the musical location, and it was excellent.

Warm, thick foccaccia with thin slices of fingerling potatoes and sweet onions on top arrived. Very good.
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There is a choice of three-course or four-course prix-fixe menus. We had anticipated having the four-courses as we were not rushed, but finally chose three courses, which, as it turned out, was a good idea since the servings were quite large. We ordered a bottle of 2009 Dei “Bossana” Riserva Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Very nice.
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The amuse-gueule was a pair of garlic-chickpea panelle, Sicilian street-food fritters, with a mayonnaise.
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Linda’s first course was
Animelle in Padella
Sweetbreads, hazelnuts, white asparagus, blood orange.

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The lightly breaded and fried sweetbreads were excellent. The hazelnut purée under and beside them was, too.  The white asparagus and chopped hazelnuts added good crunch.

My starter was
Sarde alla Griglia
Grilled Sardine, Taggiasca Olive Purée,
Broccoli di Cicco, Garlic,
Almonds, Calabrian Chili.
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That is one large, grilled sardine hiding under the garlicky turnip tops. Unfortunately the chef did not find the needed restraint in adding the chilies. 

Linda’s main course was
Pappardelle di Zafferano con Agnello Brasato
Saffron Pasta, Braised Whiskey Hill Farm’s Yard Lamb,
English Peas, Castelvetrano Olives, Grana di Pecorino Romano.
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The braised lamb pieces were very tender and good, as were the pappardelle. Very good dish.

Mine was
Costoletta Di Maiale Con Calzoncino Ripieno
Grilled Berkshire pork chop,
pork belly and balsamic onion filled pierogi, braised red cabbage.
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The pork chop was very good, particularly the tenderloin side. The red cabbage was a good, traditional accompaniment to spark it up. The filling in the picturesque pierogi was quite dry. The chop was enormous, as was the serving of cabbage and I could only eat half.

Linda’s dessert was
Torta Al Ciaccolato Caldo
Warm chocolate cake, cara cara orange, barolo-chinato gelato.
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Linda decided for once to break her no-chocolate-at-night rule and order this warm cake. It was a cake consistency and good, as was the gelato. 

My dessert was
Semifreddo all’Arancia Rossa
Blood Orange Curd Semifreddo,
Pistachio Genovese, White Chocolate Yoghurt.

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The warm white chocolate yoghurt was artistically poured on at the table. It congealed quickly on top of the disk of cold, orange-flavored mousse.  The pistachio base added another complementary flavor. Nice.

The mignardises were little ginger chocolate cakes.
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On the way out I snapped this photo of the busy open kitchen. The tall, bald man in the center back is the chef, Jonathan Benno. 
 Linda’s meal was better than mine. Her sweetbreads and lamb pappardelle were very good dishes. Mine were ok, but not at the same level, except for my dessert, which was very good. It is surprising to me that a restaurant that depends on pre-theater business would serve such large portions. I will try to order lighter fare the next time.

To see all of our meals at Lincoln Ristorante click here.

6 Responses to “Lincoln, NYC 4”

  1. John B Says:

    Thank you for your review, Michael. Interesting that you were there after a panel on Roberto Devereux. My own tastes do not run much to bel canto, but I was just there last week to meet friends prior to Elektra. My dining options are usually limited to places like The Atlantic Grill and Il Pomodoro Rosso, which can be quite serviceable if not in the exalted realms. Where I live in New York, way upstate, I can only manage this a couple of times a year, and the next Met season is killing me with offerings including Tristan und Isolde and Pelléas et Mélisande. I’ll be seeing the complete Ring in Washington next week, but since I spent half my life there, it is a lot more like going home than a NYC trip is these days. Anyway, thank you for your blog. I only read you and Andy Hayler. One would think there should be dozens of such blogs, but only you and he describe meals with deep intelligence.

    • Michael Says:

      Thank you for your kind comments. I have never tried Il Pomodoro Rosso, but will do so when the opportunity arises.
      The entire Ring is too much for me now. Good luck with it.

      • John B Says:

        Do not consider Il Pomodoro Rosso a recommendation. It served its purpose for a group lunch, but no fine restaurant serves pickled green olives from a jar among the ingredients in a pasta dish. I feel honored by your reply and would never steer you down the wrong path. As for the Ring, thanks for the good wishes. I am not a young man myself anymore, but if I am ever going to undertake it, it was to be now or never. Fondest regards to you and Linda, John

  2. KG Says:

    Hi Michael, I just tried Lincoln too, on a recent visit to NYC and my experience was similar to yours. Any Italian place in NYC that you highly regard as really good? I know the previous comment mentioned Il Pomodoro Rosso, which I have tried and found forgettable, their wine list limited to uninteresting offering

  3. Ronald Shelp Says:

    Judy Monson and I went very early months ago before an opera. Just knew just the table to request – a table larger than for two by the window.

    Thoroughly enjoyed it. Guess all taste buds vary.


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