Loiseau Rive Droite, Paris
July 5, 2016
Four years ago Linda and I enjoyed a lunch at Tante Louise and said that we would return for dinner some day. It took us four years. Luc joined us there the evening of May 14, 2016.
But in February 2016 the restaurant had changed its name and chef. With other restaurants of the Loiseau Group, it was given the company name and rebaptised Loiseau Rive Droite. The décor was refreshened and Ichiei Taguma brought in as chef to update the cuisine from its Burgundian origins.
We were seated at the edge of the upper level with a view down to the entry, the tables alongside it and, through the window, the tables on the sidewalk.
Linda and I started with a glass of Deutz Champagne. The appetizer was described as comté gougères, but they were more like good upside-down open-faced comté cheese sandwiches. (Tante Louise offered real Burgundian gougères as starters.)
We looked at the menu and chose the Menu Gourmand. We ordered a bottle of 2012 François Mikulski Meursault Porizots. This wine was delicious and reasonably priced. Despite the updating, the restaurant still has the Burgundy heavy wine cellar of Tante Louise.
The first item on the menu was
Mises en bouche
celery crisps with mousse de brebis
mango oil cones filled with foie gras; popcorn.
fromage blanc on a potato straw cylinder on a bed of lemon mousse.
These three were all imaginative, interesting and good.
The next course was
Asperge blanche, espuma à aïoli et jaune d’œuf
cacao cru et oxalis rouge
A stalk of white asparagus was dressed with aïoli foam and wood sorrel. Alongside was an egg yolk on a round. The garnishes made the asparagus more interesting.
Emietté de tourteau et bœuf de Galice
consommé de crevette grise au citron vert
This was quite a surf-and-turf mishmash. Crabmeat and carpaccio of top quality beef were on top of a consommé of shrimp and lime. Well, it was fun, but not a great culinary discovery.
Homard poché à fleur de sureau
spaghetti de calamars, sauce à la rhubarb
A good piece of poached lobster was served alongside squid spaghetti topped with a seared lobster round, spinach stems and elderberry flowers. Well, you cannot miss with poached lobster. The other ingredients were all interesting and complementary.
Tourte sablé au céleri de pigeonneau
jus de pigeon
betterave glacée et purée de céleri rave
Squab breast and foie gras surrounded by a squab forcemeat and a celery pastry had been formed into a log like a Beef Wellington, baked and sliced. Alongside were swirls of pigeon glaze and braised beets on a celery root purée. This dish was a high point of the chef’s style of showing off and trying too hard. However, the ingredients were good and there were no combinations that did not work. We could just relax and enjoy it.
Mignardises finished off the meal.
They were réligieuses à la fraises, a traditional cream-filled pastry with strawberry and biscuits with praline cream.
The service, pace, ambiance and noise level were all very good. The cuisine certainly was not our old Tante Louise. We were not sorry we tried it, but with all the other great, innovative restaurants in Paris, I do not think that we will be back.
To see our lunch when it was still Tante Louise click here.