L’Ane Rouge, Nice 3

July 19, 2016

On May 6, 2016 Ian and Jeanette invited us to dinner at L’Âne Rouge.  We had been there for a light lunch on the terrace two years before. But we had not been for dinner for eight years following a disappointing meal and the loss of the restaurant’s Michelin star.  Despite this, it still gets good ratings and is a showcase for local cuisine so we were interested to see how it was doing.

Although there was outdoor seating, the weather was gray and so we chose to sit inside by the window with this view of the restaurant’s terrace and the Old Port of Nice.
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Michel Devillers has been the chef and proprietor since 1995. Here he has just finished serving his bouillabaisse. (It must be ordered in advance.)
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Linda and I started with glasses of champagne and Jeannette had a Kir.  We chose the Menu “Riviera” from the varied selections.

We ordered a bottle of 2014 Baron G. Château de Bellet.
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This local wine goes very well with fish.

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In front were little tomato-flavored cakes; then glasses of eggplant caviar and, in back, tapenade sandwiches in puff pastry. Nice. 

La patience
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Mackerel mousse and a spicy gazpacho. 

Le Bonbon de Rouget
sur un Damier d’Asperges
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Filets of red mullet were on top of green and white asparagus stalks. On the left is a small scoop of basil sorbet; it was good, but did not benefit from being on top of salad greens. On the right was a tomato filled pastry cylinder. In front are swirls of balsamic vinegar. This was nice, but more complicated than it needed to be, particularly for something as basic as rouget filets.

La Daurade braisée,
Artichauts Barigoule
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The pieces of daurade were served with artichokes and their sauce braised with a traditional Provençale recipe. This was a good rendition of local cuisine.

Le Trocadéro Pistache,
Déclinaison de Fraises de Carros
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A round pistachio biscuit with strawberry icing was on top of diced local seasonal strawberries. It was topped with pistachio ice cream.

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We enjoyed our meal for its local cuisine and ingredients. The chef has succeeded in updating traditional recipes. This dinner was a big improvement over our last dinner, which was not locally focused and unsuccessful in its elaborate concepts. The service was good. I think that we will return more often, perhaps for the bouillabaisse.

Here are Ian and Jeanette after our meal.
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To see our meal here eight years before click here.


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