La Table du Pigonnet, Aix-en-Provence
August 2, 2016
On June 14, 2016, Linda and I dined at La Table du Pigonnet in the Pigonnet Hotel on the edge of Aix-en-Provence. It was a lovely early summer evening; we were seated at a table on the corner of the terrace looking out into the garden with its varied sculptures, including a dancing mouse in a tutu.
At the other end of the garden we could see and hear the outdoor bar which was serving cocktails and tapas accompanied by a trio of two guitars and a vocalist singing ‘60’s songs.
We started with glasses of Duval Leroy Champagne.
Three hors d’œuvres arrived.
We ordered a bottle of 2011 “Clos de la Commaraine” Louis Jadot Pommard.
The amuse-gueule was a verrine of beef cheeks with carrots and celery, which seemed a bit heavy for a summer evening.
The bread arrived in a little pail.
Linda’s first course was
Risotto aux Langoustines.
There were two risottos offered: langoustines and vegetables. Linda ordered the langoustine risotto with sincere anticipation. But she was served both as one risotto. Had the good langoustines been served alone, the reduced shellfish jus with the risotto would have been superb. Putting the unordered vegetables in the dish diluted the flavor and pleasure.
Poêlée de Cèpes aux Figues
Œuf Parfait Bio, émulsion aux Cèpes
This was very good. The cèpes (mushrooms that Americans and Italians call porcini) were fresh and sautéed golden. They were mixed with an equal quantity of cooked fig quarters and dressed with a cèpe flavored cream. In the middle was a low temperature cooked egg, which made the dish seem rich and luxurious, but not heavy.
Linda’s main course was
Ris de Veau, Jus à la Moutarde à l’Ancienne
Panisse aux Girolles
This sweetbread preparation made Linda feel that she had stepped back into classic French cuisine. The mustard sauce was light enough to let the sweetbread flavor predominate. The girolle mushrooms in chickpea pastry cups provided nice contrast. Very nice.
Confit d’Echalote aux Abats,
Mousseline de Petits Pois, Jus aux Condiments.
The pigeon was perfectly cooked with tender, moist breast meat and crisp skin. The legs could be picked up by the end and gnawed on. The creamy pea purée and diced tomatoes went well.
Linda’s dessert was
Soufflé au Cassis de Bourgogne
Crème Glacée à la Pistache
Crème Anglaise, Sorbet Griotte.
This black currant soufflé with pistachio ice cream was nice, but the enjoyment was diminished by the inexplicable long wait for it.
Le Mille-Feuille du Pigonnet
Crème Mousseline à la Vanille Bourbon,
Chantilly fève de Tonka.
This was a well-executed, classic puff pastry dessert.
There was a little slate of mignardises to finish.
We enjoyed a very nice evening. The setting was superb. The cuisine was very good and well suited to the lovely setting and season. The service was very good until the long wait for the dessert.