Gabriel Kreuther, NYC 2
August 9, 2016
On July 15, 2016, we celebrated Gabriel’s birthday, along with Marine, at Gabriel Kreuther. Linda and I had first enjoyed this Alsatian-inspired restaurant a year before, shortly after its June 2015 opening.
On the way in they posed by the plaque in front.
The entryway on 42nd Street opposite Bryant Park is decorated with Alsatian storks.
We were seated at a round table with a view of the kitchen.
We started with a bottle of Champagne: 2008 José Michel Brut “Special Club”, Moussy. This was very good: dry with elegant flavors.
A savory kugelhopf and fromage blanc with chives were put on the table. This Alsatian specialty is usually sweet, but was breadlike here.
We ordered the standard Four Course Prix Fixe, which has a wide selection for each course. There is also a ten-course tasting menu. We chose a bottle of 2012 Merry Edwards “Olivet Lane” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley: excellent
The amuse-gueule were three little tidbits: a cheese puff, a passion fruit and avocado bit and a citrusy empanada. Alongside was a coconut/coffee cocktail with mescal.
Marine’s first course was
Chilled Honeydew Melon Soup
husk cherries • dried tomatoes • cantaloupe
Marine wrote: “légèrement épicé, sucré salé avec un côté croustillant. Délicieux”
Gently spiced, sweet and savory with a crunchy effect. Delicious.
Citrus Cured Tasmanian Ocean Trout
summer corn • chorizo • wasabi
Gabriel wrote: “mets très équilibré avec une neige de wasabi épicée. En revanche je n’ai pas senti le goût du chorizo. c’etait tout de même très bon.”
Very well balanced with a wasabi snow on top. But I did not detect the taste of the chorizo. Nonetheless it was very good.
Linda and I had
black truffle • foie gras terrine • celery
The flavors of the three main, luxury ingredients were both combined and distinct. The Australian truffles added earthiness and the foie gras lusciousness. The sashimi of Hamachi amberjack was top quality. Excellent.
The kugelhopf was removed and a whole grain ciabatta with soft butter was served.
Marine’s second course was
Seared Sullivan County Foie Gras
spring onions • basil • pickled strawberries
“Foie gras : très tendre et les fraises donnaient un goût légèrement acide très agreeable.”
Quite tender and the strawberries provided a lightly acid taste that was very nice.
Linda and Gabriel had
Crispy Sweetbreads Roasted in Duck Fat
honshimeji • pancetta • pasilla
The just-right roasted crispness of the exterior and the tenderness and flavor of the center sweetbreads produced a superb dish. The sauce of small shimeji mushrooms, pancetta and mild pasilla chiles was complementary and did not interfere with the sweetbreads. Bravo.
Everglades Frog Legs Cooked In Mason Jar
Chanterelles • zucchini • puffed faro
A generous serving of frogs legs with chanterelle mushrooms had been cooked in the sealed mason jar in which they were then served to me. I did not act fast enough to get a photo before they were topped with a slightly garlicky zucchini espuma from a soda syphon and puffed farro grains. Unusual, interesting and good.
The ciabatta was taken away and we were served rosemary rolls with pork lardo.
Gabriel and Marine’s main course was
Long Island Crescent Duck Breast
confit leg • chamomile oil • spiced consommé
“Canard Marine et Gabriel : viande très tendre et tres goûteuse avec un accompagnement épicé délicieux. Les morceaux verts qui ressemblent un peu à de la salade donnaient un côté croquant au plat. Délicieux.”
Very tender and delicious meat with a deliciously spiced garnish. The green bits which looked slightly like a salad provided a crunch element to the dish. Delicious.
Linda and I had
Squab & Foie Gras Croustillant (for two)
seasonal vegetables • bay leaf jus
A thick slice of foie gras was sandwiched between two pieces of squab breast. They were wrapped in a blanched savoy cabbage leaf and then in brick pastry before deep frying. The varied seasonal vegetables were finished in a bay leaf glaze. Alongside was a sautéed squab thigh. Superb.
The pre-dessert was a faux egg made Tahitian vanilla espuma on strawberry tapioca topped with a melon sphere.
Dessert for Marine and Linda was
sautéed cherries • almond mousseline • sablé Breton
The wafers of sablé Breton enclosed almond mousseline and were topped by cherries and almonds. The three cherry halves were melt-in-your mouth tender. A cherry sorbet on the side capped this elegant, light dessert. Excellent.
Gabriel and I had
chocolate mousse • blackberry gelée • lemon verbena meringue
This really was decadent with several rich and unctuous components. Very good.
The restaurant offered Gabriel a small, elegant birthday cake.
It was a square slab of light hazelnut mousse covered with caramel and studded with macaron tops. We each had a piece. Very good.
The mignardises were very nice, but we had already overdosed on sugar when they arrived.
Our meal met our expectations. None of the courses was disappointing and many were really excellent. The chef is letting his imagination and talent shine through. The service was always attentive and good. The pace was just right. The noise level was moderate, mostly coming from the adjoining bar. We will be back.
Gabriel Kreuther website: http://www.gknyc.com
To see our meal at Gabriel Kreuther a year before click here.