Leon d’Oro, Parma

November 8, 2016

On October 11, 2016, Micky, Giovanna, Linda and I had lunch at a favorite restaurant of Micky, where he has been coming for many years, Leon d’Oro in Parma.  

Giovanna at the entrance after the walk from our hotel.

We were seated in the front room under the image of the Golden Lion.

The room is half filled with various serving carts.

Micky ordered a bottle of a special local Lambrusco. This sparkling wine was deep red and had substance. It was followed by a bottle of 2014 Prugneto, a local Sangiovese wine. In fact, the regional wine choices seem to come down just to Lambrusco and Sangiovese, which is frequently blended, although this one was not.

The captain prepared plates for us from the Carrello dei salumi. With Micky urging him on, mine was copious, varied and very good. Of course, it included freshly carved Parma ham.
It was enhanced with two plates from the Carrello delle verdure.
Grilled treviso or radicchio; excellent.
Pickled cipollini or small onions.

Linda’s pasta was a mix of three different tortelloni filled with pumpkin, parmigianno and chestnut.

Micky and I had a traditional pasta of tagliatelle with little sausage meatballs in a tomato sauce.

To continue, Linda had a selection from the Carrello degli arrosti 
The roasted pork ribs were particularly good. The veal, especially its crust, was very good.

I have never understood the point of bollito misto. The simmering takes flavor out of the meats without adding, such as the caramelization from roasting or frying.  The sauces are supposed to be a main point. But Micky insisted that we have bollito misto and I figured that this would be a good a time to try again as it is a house specialty. My plate, filled from the Carrello dei bolliti, was over the top. I did not finish it, but ate most of every meat and, at the end, still did not see the point of bollito misto.

These were the three sauces:
This was based on carrots.
A parsley sauce.
A rich tomato sauce.

There was also a bowl of Mostarda di Cremona, candied fruits spiked up with a mustard flavored syrup. .
This really helped to add interest.

The other three had dessert selections from the Carrello dei dolci. I was able to sample them; all were excellent.

Linda had a wedge of hazelnut tarte. The substance was like a mousse and tasted like chocolate. It was good.

Giovanna had a pear in red wine.

Micky had a slice of walnut cake.

We finished with a coffee and a digestif.

We knew beforehand that the meal would be enormous, but that did not seem to be a concern as we were going to skip the evening meal. We had opera tickets to Don Carlo at Parma’s famous Teatro Regio. Nonetheless, it was too much. An excellent meal would have been the salume plate, a small pasta and a dessert.  The two men who were hosts, carvers, servers etc were simpatici. The ambiance and conversation were very enjoyable. We are glad we experienced this meal. 



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