La Chèvre d’Or, Eze 3
November 29, 2016
On October 20, 2016, Linda and I returned to La Chèvre d’Or for dinner. A new chef, Arnaud Faye, had arrived during the summer and we were interested in what changes he might have made.
We started with glasses of Taittinger Cuvée Comtes de Champagne.
Hors d’œuvres arrived. An oyster with a lemoncello emulsion and mackerel with a chickpea wafer.
A silky foie gras sphere and a deconstructed pissaladière.
There was a tuna purée atop finely diced ratatouille and some local olive oil for dipping the crispy top bread square.
We selected the one tasting menu offered: De roche et d’eau.
We ordered a bottle of 2008 “La Tourtine” Domaine Tempier Bandol.
This was excellent, as the special vineyards of Domaine Tempier usually are. When we go to Domaine Tempier, they will only sell us one bottle of La Tourtine; restaurants get most of it.
The first course was
Sériole marinée et piste farcie, jus de bouillabaisse à l’argan.
A chunk of amberjack was surrounded with a multitude of garnishes and dressed with a seafood sauce.
Rôtis, gnocchi coulant de polenta, eau d’aubergine.
Cooked cèpes, and a raw slice, were served with tender polenta spheres. They were dressed with an eggplant sauce. This was very good.
Rôti, gnocchi de châtaigne et fenouil, jus anisé.
Two pieces of lobster were dressed with an anise-lobster sauce. Alongside was a chestnut-and-fennel-flavored “gnocchi” roll, among other garnishes.
Pagre de ligne,
Laqué au miel de Sospel, raviole de scamorza et concombre.
A piece of sea bream had a crispy skin lacquered with honey. It was served with a smoked Italian cheese inside the crisp pasta packages and in the liquid sauce. There was a mound of crushed cucumber and cucumber slices with the ravioli. The combination, which was not overly complicated, worked well.
Dos de chevreuil,
Rôti au limoncello, gratin de courge au vieux parmesan.
A cylinder of nicely cooked and sauced venison was served alongside squash gratinéed with aged parmesan cheese.
Cuite et crue, aux agrumes et thym
A baked fig was topped with a mascarpone sorbet. Alongside were wedges of fresh figs.
Vision d’un citron de Pays, Basilic.
This dessert was the only part of the meal that repeated from the last time. This is understandable as the pastry chef, Julien Dugourd, who has been there for seven years, has not changed. A faux lemon with a candy crust was filled with a lemon-flavored mousse. Different this time were the balls of lemon sorbet alongside that overdid the lemon flavor.
The mignardise tray was wheeled up. I took a piece of pistachio cake and a passion fruit chocolate.
As you can tell from the photos, my descriptions do not include most of what was on the plates. I also oversimplify ingredients and sauces. This was the most complicated, elaborately garnished cuisine I have had in a long time. I did enjoy the meal, although theoretically I do not like this style. Perhaps the chef thinks that it fits in with the grande luxe, expensive, Relais & Château style of La Chèvre d’Or. The service was always perfect and the pace good.
We were given a box with a little financière cake to take home for breakfast. Very good.
To see our last meal at La Chèvre d’Or click here.