Gabriel Kreuther, NYC 3
December 13, 2016
On November 25, 2016, Blair and I returned to Gabriel Kreuther for lunch. We had a nice, front-corner table with a view across the dining room into the kitchen.
We started with glass of Clouet, the house Champagne. A savory kugelhopf and fromage blanc with chives were put on the table.
The amuse-gueules were a little cardoon bit in a glass bowl, a scallop wafer, a green cream and a smoked salmon puff. They were good, but a bit too small and precious to really awaken the palate.
The obligatory prix fixe luncheon menu is two savory courses for $58. One can add another savory main course, which we did, or a dessert, which we did not. We ordered a bottle of 2013 Domaine Serene (Yamhill Cuvée) Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir.
It was very nice with body and a pleasant, restrained fruit.
Blair’s first course was a specialty of the Alsatian chef
Sturgeon & Sauerkraut Tart
american caviar mousseline • applewood smoke
The dish was presented under a glass bell filled with applewood smoke. When it is lifted, we sense the aroma that has also permeated the sauce mousseline: hollandaise with whipped cream. The sturgeon is underneath and benefits from the added fishiness of the caviar on top. He would have liked more caviar.
I started with
Foie Gras Terrine & Black Truffle Praline
muscat gelée • seven grain toast
The foie gras, which was more a pâté than a terrine, was silky and flavorful, but the truffle bits (praline?) seemed to have lost their flavor in the processing. Maybe it had entered the foie gras; that is a theory, I guess.
We both went on to the seasonal
Caramelized Chestnut Ravioli
chanterelles • aged goat cheese • sunchoke broth
The creamy and delicious chestnut purée inside the ravioli anchored the dish. The braised chanterelle mushrooms and crisp Jerusalem artichoke chips added interest and texture.
The kugelhopf was removed and a whole grain ciabatta with soft butter was served.
Blair went on to
Roasted French Quail
toasted pecans • sweet potato • smoked parsnip
The quail had been cooked two ways. The breast was quickly seared to crisp up the skin, but leave the meat juicy. The thigh meat had been braised in a savory sauce. The cornbread croutons added some needed contrast. The sweet potato sauce was very sweet.
Roasted Crescent Duck Breast
preserved porcini • turnip • green peppercorn jus
The duck breast was perfectly cooked, but the stars were the crisp duck skin wafers. The green peppercorn and porcini broth was good, but the side dish of julienned turnips was overly vinegary.
We did not order dessert, but the elegant mignardises were a satisfying finish.
Sweet macarons. Almond and passion fruit bon bons in the cocoa pod.
The luncheon was a real pleasure for its well-conceived and well-executed seasonal cuisine. The service was always attentive and efficient. The pace was just right. The ambiance good. Bravo, Gabriel.
To see our first meal at Gabriel Kreuther in August 2015, shortly after it opened, click here.
To see our second meal at Gabriel Kreuther in July 2016, click here.