Dallmayr, Munich

December 20, 2016

Dallmayr’s origins can be traced back to the year 1700. The Stammhaus (main and original store) in Munich is the largest delicatessen house in Europe. Inside the store and upstairs from the delicatessen is the Dallmayr Restaurant. Linda and I went for dinner on December 8, 2016.

The store is divided into 19 specialist departments (e.g. coffee, pralines, wine, sausage & ham, fruit & vegetable, fish, cheese, bread, pasta, meat, cold & warm buffet, tea etc.) We had stopped by after our visit to the nearby Christmas market that afternoon.
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The old front door and the new one leading to the stairs up to the restaurant.

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Coffee is Dallmayr‘s biggest business. The coffee counter was so busy we could not get close to it.
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They have their own reserve Champagnes.

After we were seated in the restaurant, the Champagne cart was wheeled up to our table and we chose glasses of Bollinger Brut Champagne. (They were not offering their own reserve.)
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We had second glasses to go with our amuse-gueule and first course .
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We then went on to a bottle of  2008 Fürst (Centgrafenberg) Frühburgunder “R”
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Frühburgunder (also known as Pinot Madeleine) is an old variety, native to the Franconia wine region in northwest Bavaria. Although the grape is not actually related to Burgundy’s pinot noir, the characteristics are similar. This wine was really excellent.

The menu offered was in observance of the tenth anniversary of the establishment of this restaurant inside the Dallmayr store. It included one dish from each of the ten years.

The first amuse-gueule was Bavarian mushrooms with green curry and chutney.
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Interesting and good.

The second one involved parsnips, but I never did know what it was and I started eating it before I remembered to take the photo.
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That was not caviar; it was black seeds of some kind.

Bread was put on the table in three varieties: potato, beetroot and normal.
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There were also three butters: seaweed, raspberry dust and normal.
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The first menu course was from the year 2013
Geeiste Ochsenschwanzessenz
Mark, Felchenkaviar
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A ceramic “marrow bone” served as a bowl for a delicious, rich, iced oxtail essence gel. Alongside was a dab of beef marrow topped with whitefish roe. An excellent start.

2012
Schweinekinn
Sardine und Tomate
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A slice of sardine and some tomato bits were on top of a rectangle of braised pork chin. Alongside was a dab of tomato gel. Dark toast with Christmas spices was topped with zucchini batons. This eclectic mix was enjoyable.

2010
Aal in Aal
rote Zwiebel
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A slice of red onion was topped by a rectangle of smoked eel with a layer of fresh eel inside. It was dressed with a broth of smoked eel and a spritz of eel oil. We really enjoyed this.

2008
Rotbarbe
knusprige Schuppen
Octopus & Coco Bohne
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The slice of red mullet (or rouget) had been cooked leaving crispy scales on top. Alongside was a chunk of octopus, white coco beans and their purée. Excellent.

2014
Herz & Bries vom Kalb
Brokkoli
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A crispy deep-fried sweetbread was alongside a rolled slice of calf’s heart with diced Macadamia nuts inside. Broccoli was a garnish and the flavor of the sauce. This was an unusual and successful flavor combination.

2015
Hirschriicken
Malz, Sanddorn, Schwarzwurzel
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A rare chunk of saddle of venison was dressed with sauces of malt, sea buckthorn and black salsify. Pieces of salsify sprinkled with malt were scattered around. This was a completely autumnal dish.

2011
Schnecken
Sauerrahm und Ofenkartoffel
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The faux baked potato was made of chopped raw snails in an edible silver nest covered with sour cream. Alongside were cooked snails. This was amusing, but its placement after the venison was a mystery that our affable waitress could not explain.

As one might expect in this house brimming with pastries, there were three desserts. With them I had a glass of late harvest Rudolf May Rieslaner, a cross of Riesling and Silvaner.
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2009
Cassis, Joghurt, Mohn
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Black currant and yoghurt ice creams were dressed with a black currant coulis and poppy seeds.

2007
Schokolade
Avocado und Tamarillo
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Chocolate, avocado and tamarillo bits and pieces formed this dessert.

2006
Kokos
Five Spices & Mango
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Coconut, five spices & mango were the flavors of this dessert. Mango sauce was provided.

Finally there were mignardises. The white chocolate ones in the back had a tonka bean filling. The pink sheets were raspberry flavored white chocolate.
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The after-dinner cart was presented, but we declined.

We really enjoyed our meal. It did not fit neatly into any category, but the imaginative combinations and presentations worked well. The wide variety of unusual ingredients with some German touches kept things interesting. The service was always cheerful and efficient. The pace was just right. The noise level was low. Bravo.

http://www.dallmayr.com/delicatessen/restaurant-dallmayr

As we started our walk back to our hotel, we could enjoy the “Christmas trees” in Dallmayr‘s windows.

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Alpine cow bells.

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Table knives and spoons.

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Table napkins

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Wine glasses.

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Tea cups.

 

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