L’Atelier d’Emile, Beaulieu-sur-Mer

January 10, 2017

L’Atelier d’Emile was opened in July 2016 by the owners of the nearby, very successful African Queen in the port of Beaulieu-sur-Mer. Linda and I first went for dinner on October 25, 2016.

The dining room is small with an opening to the kitchen.

The hors d’œuvre was cherry tomatoes, little sausages and crunchy tidbits.

We ordered a bottle of
2014 Domaine Pradelle Crozes-Hermitage.
This was good with Rhône characteristics. It went well with the food and was almost ready to drink, as is frequently the case with young Crozes-Hermitage.

We shared all the dishes; the first was
Le Croque-Monsieur au Vieux Comté
et à la Truffe d’Eté.

Petite Mâche Verte et Croquante.
The quality of the aged Comté cheese and its mixed-in summer truffles was high. The flavors were well brought out by the careful grilling. The mache salad was a perfect counterpoint.

La Fricassé “Minute” de Coquillages
et Calmars en Marinière Crémeuse
The sauce of cream enhanced with clam and mussel juice sauce was delicious with the just cooked calamari and other shellfish.

Entrecôte de Veau de Ferme Rôtie Rosé,
Réduction d’un Osso Bucco.

Un Risotto Légèrement Safrané.

The chunks of roasted veal were served with a sauce in the modern osso buco style, that is with evident tomato. There were strips of orange zest on top substituting for the traditional lemon gremolata. Alongside was the a saffron risotto, traditional with osso buco.  Nice and quite filling.

We did not have dessert.

The meal was enjoyable. All three courses were well executed modern adaptations of traditional French or Italian cuisine. The service was friendly and efficient.

We returned to L’Atelier d’Emile for dinner two months later on December 27, 2016. We started with glasses of Théophile, By Roederer, Champagne.

The hors d’œuvre was a little ramequin of pâté maison.

We ordered a bottle of
2011 Le Château de Mon Père, Côtes de Provence.
It had a good flavor, but was a bit rough.

Bread was served in a paper bag.

For her first course Linda returned to the Croque-Monsieur which we had enjoyed the last time, but it was not as well prepared, seeming scrambled.

For my starter, and Linda’s main course, we had
Le Fois Gras Poché au Vin Rouge
et aux Epices,
Chutney d’Oignons Rouges
sur une Brioche Grillée.
The lobe of foie gras had been thinly sliced and served warm after poaching in spiced red wine. It had a silky texture and an elegant flavor. Alongside were toasted brioche and a chutney of red onions and sultana raisins. 

My main course was
L’Entrecôte de Veau de Ferme
aux Citron du Pays et Marsala,
Quelques Légumes du Moment.

La Purée Maison d’Emile au Beurre Frais.
A veal chop had been charred on the outside and left quite pink in the middle. It was served in chunks with cooked lemon slices and mixed vegetables on a marsala sauce. This was okay, but the flavor combinations did not really work well for me. Alongside was a bowl of silky mashed potatoes.

We did not have dessert.

Well, this meal was okay, but not up to the quality of our first meal at L’Atelier d’Emile. The restaurant was full with a holiday crowd and the kitchen may have been stressed. But the service was still friendly and warm. We will try again in the off season.



3 Responses to “L’Atelier d’Emile, Beaulieu-sur-Mer”

  1. Un peu dommage de savoir que ç’est toujours mieux la première fois et toujours un peu décevant à la deuxième, pourtant cela devrait être le contraire 🙃

    • Gregory Martinez Says:

      Bonjour je pense qu’il s’agit plus d’une histoire de gouts que de qualité.
      Effectivement nos associations peuvent parfois moins plaire mais nous changeons de carte tous les quinze jours alors il y a de quoi se faire plaisir

  2. Gregory Martinez Says:

    Thank you SO MUCH
    I hope to see you again in the resraurant
    Your advise is very important for us
    We try to do our best to offer a good meal and a good time.
    Next time ask for me and I can give you some help to choose your courses.
    Greg from atelier d emile

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