Akrame, Paris 3
January 31, 2017
We really enjoyed Akrame in its temporary facilities last May. Since then, that location, just north of the Place de la Madeleine, has become the restaurant’s permanent spot. So Linda and I were looking forward to an interesting and excellent meal when we returned to Akrame for dinner on January 17, 2017.
(For celebrity hounds: The No Name Hotel where Kim Kardashian was robbed is entered from the same courtyard and is upstairs.)
We started with glasses of Joseph Perrier Blanc de blancs Champagne.
A smoked pineapple chunk on the end of a skewer was presented to be eaten with the hand. This opened the palate. The next hors d’œuvres were
Brioche vapeur/Anchois/Parmesan and Feuille végétale/Anguille fumée.
The steamed brioche bottom was topped with anchovies and a thin parmesan slice. The black faux leaf under the smoked eel was a formed potato chip dusted with bamboo ash.
Butter: the green one is flavoured with tarragon and lime; the other with fleur de sel and tonka bean ashes.
We ordered a bottle of 2009 Château Corton “Les Charmes” 1er Cru Meursault. Very good.
The first menu course was
This was a bisque of Jerusalem artichokes with smoked haddock and peanuts. The muskiness of the three ingredients combined well to make a good seasonal soup.
A beet and scallop-filled raviolo topped with a scallop slice and a faux egg yolk was presented. A beet sabayon was poured over it. The beets were overly dominant; the scallops could barely be heard.
A crab foam on a crab cream base flavored with cardamom and crab roe was presented. Puffed and smoked rice was sprinkled on top adding much needed texture. Good flavors.
A jar was presented filled with two lobster tails on top of a clump of smoked coriander. A hot broth was poured onto them and the jars sealed. After a while, plates with snails, julienned nori and other goodies were put in front of us. The lobster tails were served on top. Delicious.
An excellent piece of Atlantic sea bass was served on top of a slice of mimolette cheese, a surprising choice. But the combination worked well for me. It was aided by the swatch of black olive sauce.
We were now served glasses of 2011 Nuits-St-Georges.
Ris de Veau/Pistou/Estragon
A braised veal sweetbread was served with various sauces and garnishes. The dish was merely okay, which was especially disappointing as Akrame’s sweetbread roasted on coffee beans was perhaps the best dish we had anywhere in 2016.
Ice Vin chaud
A Campari-like palate freshener.
A mystery dessert wine was offered.
This sweet rhubarb wine was surprisingly good and appropriate for the desserts.
Chocolat/Praliné/Truffes/Sirop d’érable/Noix/Glace verte
A walnut biscuit in maple syrup.
One of the chocolate chunks shown to us was grated over the ice cream scoop in a hazelnut tuile cradle.
Warm chocolate on a steamed brioche bottom.
We had a very good time. The cuisine was mostly delicious and interesting. The service was jocular, knowledgable and efficient. The pace was good and the noise level low.
To see our meal at Akrame in May 2016 click here.