Akrame, Paris 3

January 31, 2017

We really enjoyed Akrame in its temporary facilities last May. Since then, that location, just north of the Place de la Madeleine,  has become the restaurant’s permanent spot. So Linda and I were looking forward to an interesting and excellent meal when we returned to Akrame for dinner on January 17, 2017.

(For celebrity hounds: The No Name Hotel where Kim Kardashian was robbed is entered from the same courtyard and is upstairs.)

We started with glasses of  Joseph Perrier Blanc de blancs Champagne.

A smoked pineapple chunk on the end of a skewer was presented to be eaten with the hand. This opened the palate. The next hors d’œuvres were
Brioche vapeur/Anchois/Parmesan
and Feuille végétale/Anguille fumée.
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The steamed brioche bottom was topped with anchovies and a thin parmesan slice.  The black faux leaf under the smoked eel was a formed potato chip dusted with bamboo ash.

Bread arrived.
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Butter: the green one is flavoured with tarragon and lime; the other with fleur de sel and tonka bean ashes. 
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We ordered a bottle of 2009 Château Corton “Les Charmes” 1er Cru Meursault. Very good.
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The first menu course was
Démarrage
Topinambour/Haddock fumée/Cacahuète.
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This was a bisque of Jerusalem artichokes with smoked haddock and peanuts. The muskiness of the three ingredients combined well to make a good seasonal soup.

Iodé
Saint-Jacques/Betterave
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A beet and scallop-filled raviolo topped with a scallop slice and a faux egg yolk was presented. A beet sabayon was poured over it. The beets were overly dominant; the scallops could barely be heard. 

Audace
Tourteau/Cardamone/Corail
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A crab foam on a crab cream base flavored with cardamom and crab roe was presented. Puffed and smoked rice was sprinkled on top adding much needed texture. Good flavors.

Force
Homard/Escargots/Persillade
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A jar was presented filled with two lobster tails on top of a clump of smoked coriander. A hot broth was poured onto them and the jars sealed. After a while, plates with snails, julienned nori and other goodies were put in front of us. The lobster tails were served on top. Delicious.

Le Marin
Bar/Olive/Cresson
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An excellent piece of Atlantic sea bass was served on top of a slice of mimolette cheese, a surprising choice. But the combination worked well for me. It was aided by the swatch of black olive sauce.

We were now served glasses of 2011 Nuits-St-Georges.
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Terre
Ris de Veau/Pistou/Estragon
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A braised veal sweetbread was served with various sauces and garnishes. The dish was merely okay, which was especially disappointing as Akrame’s sweetbread roasted on coffee beans was perhaps the best dish we had anywhere in 2016.

Fraicheur
Ice Vin chaud
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A Campari-like palate freshener. 

Laitage
Fontainbleau/Muesli
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A scoop of a whipped cream/white cheese mix was topped with a Müsli mix of grains, dried fruits, seeds and nuts.

A mystery dessert wine was offered.
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This sweet rhubarb wine was surprisingly good and appropriate for the desserts.

Jouissance
Chocolat/Praliné/Truffes/Sirop d’érable/Noix/Glace verte
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A walnut biscuit in maple syrup.

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One of the chocolate chunks shown to us was grated over the ice cream scoop in a hazelnut tuile cradle.

Warm chocolate on a steamed brioche bottom.
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We had a very good time. The cuisine was mostly delicious and interesting. The service was jocular, knowledgable and efficient. The pace was good and the noise level low.

http://www.akrame.com/

To see our meal at Akrame in May 2016 click here.

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