Sur Mesure, Paris 2
February 7, 2017
When Linda and I dined at Sur Mesure in 2013, I summed up in my blogpost: “I did not write “excellent” after each dish as that would be boringly repetitive; they were all excellent with no exceptions.” So we were looking forward to a fine meal when Joëlle joined us at Sur Mesure for dinner on January 19, 2017.
We started with glasses of Lenoble Champagne.
The restaurant’s décor is white on white, which can make photography of the cuisine tricky when it follows the same color scheme.
This was true of the hors d’œuvre plate.
These were good, although a bit bland, like their color, but I did not hear the descriptions. One was made with Jeruslaem artichoke.
The bread basket was passed.
The round ones topped with black sesame seeds are made with Japanese rice flour. They did not have much flavor.
The menu is divided into six sections. Two of them are required, but the other four have three offerings in each which can be selected by each diner. Expanding to seven or eight courses is also offered, but we declined that. We ordered a bottle of Meursault Genevrières.
Rich and good, with the earthy characteristics of the Genevrières.
The first course is a regular house specialty
« Risotto » de soja aux huîtres / Truffe noire.
Although not photogenic, this is a signature dish of Thierry Marx. Soybean sprouts are cut to the size of a grain of rice, as is the meat of cèpes, shallots and oysters. A « risotto » is made of these, thinned with the juice of the oysters and soy milk, then foamed and topped with a truffle slice. Very good.
The ladies’ second course was
Pressé de foie gras / Anguille fumée « Terre et Estuaire »
The rectangle of foie gras terrine was covered with a fine layer of apple cooked in a Port reduction (which also was used for the line on the plate.) Joëlle noted that the port fused well with what she called a truly natural foie gras. The roll at the left end of the foie gras was smoked eel. It had little flavor.
Semi-Pris de coquillages / Longuet Caviar.
Clam juices were jelled and formed a base. On top was a mound of clams whipped into a froth and topped with fried shallots. Marinated cones of chioggia beets formed decoration. Perched on the edge was a steamed brioche sandwich of mousseline of chicken topped with caviar. The exoticism of this dish did not translate into great cuisine, but it was okay.
Linda and Joëlle went on to
Saint Jacques simplement poêlées & Neige de truffe.
They declared the cooking, texture and flavor of the scallops to be magnificent. The cannelloni was filled with mousse of black trumpet mushrooms. Excellent dish.
Bar rôti « Ecailles croustillantes »
Noisettes du Piémont & pain torréfié.
The generous piece of sea bass was top quality. It was sprinkled with hazelnuts, burnt breadcrumbs and crusty fish scales. The cylinder contained a salsify mousse. This time the ingredients worked together. Excellent.
We were served glasses of 2011 Maxime Graillot Cornas.
Their meat course was
Pigeon en croute de poireau & Raviole de truffe.
The pigeon was tender and delicious. The leek dusting on it added color but no taste. The ravioli filled with truffles were cleverly done and very good. Very successful dish.
Cochon de lait au vin rouge / Clémentine / Panais.
Suckling pig rounds had been enclosed in a galantine with a gelée of its own juices. There was a red wine sauce underneath. Alongside were breaded and deep fried tangerine wedges and parsnip ribbons. Once again, the exotic factor did not translate into a delicious dish.
We then had the Sweet Bento.
A green tea panna cotta.
A frozen meringue flavored with ylang-ylang, the oil of a tropical tree; an avocado cream and a vanilla panna cotta ball with a stripe of grapefruit jelly inside.
For dessert Joëlle had
She said there were « Textures formidables. »
Saké glacé / Fruits confits corses.
The sake ice cream was very good. The candied Corsican fruits offered a chewy, but sweet, contrast.
My dessert was
Sphère / Yaourt émulsionné / Rhum coco
The ball was formed with candied coconut. Inside was rum-flavored yoghurt.
We enjoyed a nice evening, but, despite some excellent dishes, the cuisine was too inconsistant to meet our expectations. When we came to Sur Mesure three years before, it had recently opened. The chef was present and needed to impress the Parisian food world. In this he succeeded. Since then he has been involved in high profile projects such as the Thierry Marx Bakery and the French TV Top Chef. He does consulting on cuisine and restaurant management. I think that this shows.
The pace was very good until dessert time arrived. The all-female staff that night (except for the major domo at the entry, who circulated a bit) was certainly enthusiastic and professional.
To see my blogpost on our previous meal at Sur Mesure click here. This includes some background on the chef.