Sur Mesure, Paris 2

February 7, 2017

When Linda and I dined at Sur Mesure in 2013,  I  summed up in my blogpost: “I did not write “excellent” after each dish as that would be boringly repetitive; they were all excellent with no exceptions.” So we were looking forward to a fine meal when Joëlle joined us at Sur Mesure for dinner on January 19, 2017. 

We started with glasses of Lenoble Champagne.
img_3868-480x303
img_3869-480x339

The restaurant’s décor is white on white, which can make photography of the cuisine tricky when it follows the same color scheme.img_3873-480x120

This was true of the hors d’œuvre plate.
img_3874-480x366
These were good, although a bit bland, like their color, but I did not hear the descriptions. One was made with Jeruslaem artichoke.

The bread basket was passed.
img_3876-480x284
The round ones topped with black sesame seeds are made with Japanese rice flour. They did not have much flavor.

The menu is divided into six sections. Two of them are required, but the other four have three offerings in each which can be selected by each diner. Expanding to seven or eight courses is also offered, but we declined that. We ordered a bottle of  Meursault Genevrières.
img_3877-480x425
Rich and good, with the earthy characteristics of the Genevrières.

The first course is a regular house specialty
« Risotto » de soja aux huîtres / Truffe noire.
img_3879-480x245
Although not photogenic, this is a signature dish of Thierry Marx. Soybean sprouts are cut to the size of a grain of rice, as is the meat of cèpes, shallots and oysters. A « risotto » is made of these, thinned with the juice of the oysters and soy milk, then foamed and topped with a truffle slice. Very good.

The ladies’ second course was
Pressé de foie gras / Anguille fumée « Terre et Estuaire »
img_3881-480x155
img_3880-480x321
The rectangle of foie gras terrine was covered with a fine layer of apple cooked in a Port reduction (which also was used for the line on the plate.) Joëlle noted that the port fused well with what she called a truly natural foie gras. The roll at the left end of the foie gras was smoked eel. It had little flavor.

Mine was
Semi-Pris de coquillages / Longuet Caviar.
img_3882-480x245
Clam juices were jelled and formed a base. On top was a mound of clams whipped into a froth and topped with fried shallots. Marinated cones of chioggia beets formed decoration. Perched on the edge was a steamed brioche sandwich of mousseline of chicken topped with caviar. The exoticism of this dish did not translate into great cuisine, but it was okay. 

Linda and Joëlle went on to
Saint Jacques simplement poêlées & Neige de truffe.
img_3886-480x278
They declared the cooking, texture and flavor of the scallops to be magnificent. The cannelloni was filled with mousse of black trumpet mushrooms. Excellent dish.

I had
Bar rôti « Ecailles croustillantes »
Noisettes du Piémont & pain torréfié.
img_3890-480x360
The generous piece of sea bass was top quality. It was sprinkled with hazelnuts, burnt breadcrumbs and crusty fish scales. The cylinder contained a salsify mousse. This time the ingredients worked together. Excellent.

We were served glasses of 2011 Maxime Graillot Cornas.
img_3891-480x448
Good.

Their meat course was
Pigeon en croute de poireau & Raviole de truffe.
img_3893-480x368
The pigeon was tender and delicious. The leek dusting on it added color but no taste.  The ravioli filled with truffles were cleverly done and very good. Very successful dish.

Mine was
Cochon de lait au vin rouge / Clémentine / Panais.
img_3895-480x331
Suckling pig rounds had been enclosed in a galantine with a gelée of its own juices. There was a red wine sauce underneath. Alongside were breaded and deep fried tangerine wedges and parsnip ribbons. Once again, the exotic factor did not translate into a  delicious dish.

We then had the Sweet Bento.
img_3898-480x232
img_3899-480x253
img_3900-480x209
img_3901-480x401
A green tea panna cotta.

img_3897-480x211
A frozen meringue flavored with ylang-ylang, the oil of a tropical tree; an avocado cream and a vanilla panna cotta ball with a stripe of grapefruit jelly inside.

For dessert Joëlle had
Chocolat Karité.
img_3903-480x195
She said there were « Textures formidables. »

Linda chose
Saké glacé / Fruits confits corses.
img_3905-480x121
img_3904-480x194
The sake ice cream was very good. The candied Corsican fruits offered a chewy, but sweet, contrast.

My dessert was
Sphère / Yaourt émulsionné / Rhum coco
img_3906-474x480
The ball was formed with candied coconut. Inside was rum-flavored yoghurt. 

We enjoyed a nice evening, but, despite some excellent dishes, the cuisine was too inconsistant to meet our expectations. When we came to Sur Mesure three years before, it had recently opened. The chef was present and needed to impress the Parisian food world. In this he succeeded. Since then he has been involved in high profile projects such as the Thierry Marx Bakery and the French TV Top Chef. He does consulting on cuisine and restaurant management. I think that this shows.

The pace was very good until dessert time arrived.  The all-female staff that night (except for the major domo at the entry, who circulated a bit) was certainly enthusiastic and professional.

http://www.mandarinoriental.com/paris/fine-dining/sur-mesure-par-thierry-marx /

To see my blogpost on our previous meal at Sur Mesure click here. This includes some background on the chef.

 

One Response to “Sur Mesure, Paris 2”

  1. Sam Spektor Says:

    Are the French ever going to learn that pasta is not a “side” or a vegetable? It’s bad enough that they don’t know how to make pasta (stuffed or non-stuffed), but to serve it as an adjunct to a dish shows how little they know about it.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s